E30ls1

[Reyhan335]

Yeah that should be it. Did u figure out the starter yet?

EDIT: Is that a PSI harness? That fuel pump wire on your harness should go to the fuel pump. That should be your 12V feed wire from the fuel pump relay on your new harness. Double check the wiring on your harness fuel pump relay to confirm, but AFAIK the harness should be setup so that the PCM switches on the relay to power the fuel pump. You don't wanna use the BMW fuel pump relay here there's no need for it.

do you have a picture of how you wired up the fuel pump?

[Reyhan335]

Yeah that should be it. Did u figure out the starter yet?

EDIT: Is that a PSI harness? That fuel pump wire on your harness should go to the fuel pump. That should be your 12V feed wire from the fuel pump relay on your new harness. Double check the wiring on your harness fuel pump relay to confirm, but AFAIK the harness should be setup so that the PCM switches on the relay to power the fuel pump. You don't wanna use the BMW fuel pump relay here there's no need for it.

yeah it is a psi harness. hold on. so everybody told me to go through the c101 for the fuel pump wiring. you want me to connect it straight from the harness to the fuel pump?
the other wire will be to a 12v source for the relay.

[Q8y_drifter]

Yeah that should be it. Did u figure out the starter yet?

EDIT: Is that a PSI harness? That fuel pump wire on your harness should go to the fuel pump. That should be your 12V feed wire from the fuel pump relay on your new harness. Double check the wiring on your harness fuel pump relay to confirm, but AFAIK the harness should be setup so that the PCM switches on the relay to power the fuel pump. You don't wanna use the BMW fuel pump relay here there's no need for it.

[Reyhan335]

That fuel filter & lines is dangerously low and exposed. You might wanna use that mounting hole on your body to move it up and away from the ground/tire/rocks/etc.

You also may wanna go with fuel injection hose clamps after you've started up and tested the engine/wiring.

I got it like that just to go ahead and get it routed, the lines coming from the tank were a pain in the ass to get too. i'm probably going to come up wit like a skid plate or something for it so nothing can hit it.

also you've done the swap. to get it turned over, all i need to do is connect the harness to the fuel pump wire in the C101 and the ignition wires to a 12v constant. than just plug the pcm and jump the starter?

[Q8y_drifter]

That fuel filter & lines is dangerously low and exposed. You might wanna use that mounting hole on your body to move it up and away from the ground/tire/rocks/etc.

You also may wanna go with fuel injection hose clamps after you've started up and tested the engine/wiring.

[Reyhan335]

This is how we spend Valentine's day

So I finally got the fuel filter under there. It's not pretty. But it works. When it runs and I can put it at the lift I'll make it look nice. (No I won't if it works it'll be left just like this)


Connected the fuel line to the hard line at the bottom. Routed the line all the way up. Around the strut arm.


My girl and I got some wire going through the hole and up to the front. Labeled them as well


Gotta get the battery charged tomorrow and then I can put it in the car. Connect the fuel pump wires. The ignition wire. Then try to start the car. I'm pretty sure that's the only wires I'll need connected to get it running.

It's coming along guys. I'm super stoked.



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[Reyhan335]

Sorry for being naive but what year is your car (you said early model before, but you have a c101). There is small harness differences. This thread covers it all: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=163088

Quote from linked thread "Pin#18 – Black/Yellow – START – From the start position of the ignition switch to c101 then on to terminal 50 in the starter. This is the signal that tells the car to engage the starter motor and turn the car on. Powered only when the key is in start mode. In early cars the functions of c101 pin 15(see above) were combined into this pin. Instead of the unloader relays being grounded right at the starter they were grounded at the starter through this pin. i.e. the unloaders relays were connected to the start signal before c101 in the car instead of inside the starter. Obviously you need to hook this one up."

You shouldn't have a pin 15 I'm assuming.^

When you turn your key to the start position it should have 12+V at pin 18. Once you confirm that take a look at your harness and using a multimeter take the wire your going to use for pin 18 and test continuity at the other end your going to connect to the starter (just to make sure your using the right wire).

Obviously you need to make sure you have the large power wire connected from battery to the solenoid as well.

Should work...you need to make sure the fuse box is getting power too! Or there will be no power at pin 18.

GL -Nick

That's the one i had it connected to and nothing. i don't know. i'll get to it when i finish this fuel filter situation. Trying to fit it in where the external pump was at is kind of hard with the limited amount of space.

also it's an 87 325es

[Nick_08]

Sorry for being naive but what year is your car (you said early model before, but you have a c101). There is small harness differences. This thread covers it all: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=163088

Quote from linked thread "Pin#18 – Black/Yellow – START – From the start position of the ignition switch to c101 then on to terminal 50 in the starter. This is the signal that tells the car to engage the starter motor and turn the car on. Powered only when the key is in start mode. In early cars the functions of c101 pin 15(see above) were combined into this pin. Instead of the unloader relays being grounded right at the starter they were grounded at the starter through this pin. i.e. the unloaders relays were connected to the start signal before c101 in the car instead of inside the starter. Obviously you need to hook this one up."

You shouldn't have a pin 15 I'm assuming.^

When you turn your key to the start position it should have 12+V at pin 18. Once you confirm that take a look at your harness and using a multimeter take the wire your going to use for pin 18 and test continuity at the other end your going to connect to the starter (just to make sure your using the right wire).

Obviously you need to make sure you have the large power wire connected from battery to the solenoid as well.

Should work...you need to make sure the fuse box is getting power too! Or there will be no power at pin 18.

GL -Nick

[Reyhan335]

E30ls1

Factory box is hooked up to the battery. Idk I worked on it for a couple hours and was just tired and figured to ask y'all


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[Q8y_drifter]

The wire from the harness that goes to the starter supplies the PCM with 12V+. Technically you can wire that directly to the battery or alternator to get 12V+.

Stupid question, the factory fuse box is hooked up to the battery right?

I'm not very familiar troubleshooting the factory E30 ignition/starter wiring so hopefully someone else can chime in.

[Reyhan335]

The harness does not control the starter in any way. Have you tried connecting a wire from the battery directly to the starter solenoid to test the starter?

Starter turns. It's new. On the harness it says two wires go to the starter. Just don't know how it connects to the c101


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[Q8y_drifter]

The harness does not control the starter in any way. Have you tried connecting a wire from the battery directly to the starter solenoid to test the starter?

[Reyhan335]

Starter
1. Large battery cable from battery positive to starter positive stud (large stud on bottom).
2. Smaller starter solenoid wire (Must be 12V+ cranking only) from C101 to starter solenoid (small stud).

I'm using a standalone switch panel so I've deleted C101 entirely, but from what I've read online the starter solenoid wire is pin 18 black/yellow. You can confirm with a multimeter if you cycle the key through the ignition switch positions.

Borrowed pic from Google to show starter studs.




Fuel pump
Page 11 on the PSI manual shows the wiring for the pump. Just make sure you use a thick quality wire for the fuel pump feed wire from the relay.

I had it to the black and yellow wire and it still wouldn't work. I connected a wire from the starter directly to the c101 18th pin. And nothing happened. That's why I was trying to go through the harness


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[Q8y_drifter]

Starter
1. Large battery cable from battery positive to starter positive stud (large stud on bottom).
2. Smaller starter solenoid wire (Must be 12V+ cranking only) from C101 to starter solenoid (small stud).

I'm using a standalone switch panel so I've deleted C101 entirely, but from what I've read online the starter solenoid wire is pin 18 black/yellow. You can confirm with a multimeter if you cycle the key through the ignition switch positions.

Borrowed pic from Google to show starter studs.




Fuel pump
Page 11 on the PSI manual shows the wiring for the pump. Just make sure you use a thick quality wire for the fuel pump feed wire from the relay.

Edit: I vaguely remember the fuel pump relay was already prewired by PSI on mine so all that was required was to connect the feed wire to the pump and make sure the pump is well grounded as well. I can check my car in a couple days if you want.

[Reyhan335]

Me.

Do you remember howd you connect the starter and fuel pump to it? I'm confused with the directions and wiring is not my strong point.


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