Project Snow White (LM4 Swap)

[sgtskid]

It's been a while since I've updated this thread and this isn't going to be an update.

BUT, over the years I've had a handful of people ask about the 3d printed knob for the sunroof handle. I designed and printed my own and after I sold the car, I squirrel away all the info from it. I just recently came across the file and have posted it on my website.

If anyone is interested I used a Lulzbot with PLA and about 20-30% fill with settings in auto and on "finish" .

https://www.rdemotorsports.com/product-page/e30-bmw-sunroof-crank-knob-3d-file

[sgtskid]

What did this car make on the dyno with just the LS6 cam, refresh and truck intake?

I've never had it on a dyno. I'd like to one day and I have access to one, but our schedules never linedup for me to get over to it.

[AWDBOB]

What did this car make on the dyno with just the LS6 cam, refresh and truck intake?

[The Dark Side of Will]

That's some kinda style, aight.

[sgtskid]

I don't.

You mean Chump Car?

Why?

Chump/Champ...they changed their name.

There is a guy that runs a DTM style E30 and I am pretty sure his name is Will. Just curious

[The Dark Side of Will]

I don't.

You mean Chump Car?

Why?

[sgtskid]

Why not use the BMW VSS in the diff?

Didn't think about it. I knew the ECU had a signal that was pulled from the trans and that's what I went with.



Off topic question for you Dark Side, do you race in Champ?

[The Dark Side of Will]

Why not use the BMW VSS in the diff?

[sgtskid]

Update:
Just turned ~5,000 miles - car is running better than ever.
Huge shout out to Erk's LS Tuning and Wiring for getting the tune dialed in and the speedometer reading correctly.

The tach is now reading correctly after simply setting the signal in the ecu from 8cyl back to 4cyl which is what the tach was programmed for.

The speedometer receives a signal from the ecu which receives the signal from the transmission. The speedometer has a "learn" feature in which you press a button, drive a mile, and then press the button again. During this time the speedometer is measuring the pulses/mile and is suppose to calibrate on it's own. I tried this method a few times and the results were always very erratic speed. The issue was fixed by telling the ecu the diff ratio and tire size and then setting the output signal to 8000 pulses. The speedometer had a factory setting of 8000 so once I did a hard reset everything worked perfectly.

The gauges I bought were Summit Racing and I would not recommend them. The gauges haven't even been installed a year and they are already starting to lose portions of the numbers. The tach resolution is not that great and moves in increments of 100 and sometimes 500 rpm.


I did 70mph in 4th, 5th, and 6th gear to see what RPM the engine would run at and compared to the spreadsheet I had made (posted on page 2).
Below are the results and keep in mind tach moves in 100 and 500rpm.


4th gear 75mph (predicted rpm ~4,000)


5th gear 70mph (predicted rpm ~2800)


6th gear 70 mph (predicted rpm ~ 1900)

[sgtskid]

1500 miles. Photo creds: Fastest Foreigner - Killboy.com

[kalib0y]

That's a great way to do it. Building and troubleshooting is where all the fun is.

Let me know whenever you are ready brotha!

[sgtskid]

great work and detail

Thank you! I'll be hitting you up soon for some studs. We run them on our race car and I have a set on my 88 Super E.

I'm trying not to upgrade the car too fast until I get all the kinks worked out. Doing so keeps me from beating on it too hard. :)

[kalib0y]

great work and detail

[sgtskid]

1000 mile check in.

1. Dragging brakes fixed - backed off on the rod between the master cylinder and the pedal
2. Tach fixed - needed resistor between the power and signal wire
3. Speedometer is still off
4. Electric fan fixed - issue with relay wiring

No power steering feels amazing, I am still really happy with it even on twisty roads when pushed hard. No power brakes is a little sketch when doing spirited driving - I will most likely be upgrading calipers or reducing the size of the master. I can't lock up the wheels and I don't have the confidence I want to late brake into a turn and know that the car will respond.

On another note, I have been slowly going through the rest of the car and I started with the sunroof crank knob.
I made a prototype on a 3d printer and once I verified the dimensions I printed a more permanent version from black Nylon. The permanent version was a little tight and I had to use a rubber mallet to tap it onto the handle. Works like a champ though and sure beats the little metal post.

[sgtskid]

Update: I've put about 300 miles on her and she run's like a scalded cat!

I have a short list of things that need to be fixed:
1. Brakes are dragging (Massive Booster Delete)
2. Still no Tach
3. Speedometer is WAY off
4. Electric fan runs all the time.

Other than that, she runs great and is an absolute blast to drive. The solid motor mounts aren't as bad as I was expecting vibration wise and the exhaust is actually relatively quiet until I stand on it. No power steering isn't that bad but, I haven't had it on a tight road yet. The decision to delete the brake booster is still questionable, I can't give a solid answer until I have fixed the dragging pad problem (just need to adjust linkage). Because the pads are in contact with the rotor, the pedal is super firm and the pads have some pretty knarly fade.

The fan should be an easy fix. I just need to change wire pin-outs on a relay.