Wilwood master cylinder leaking

[jpod999]

Were the 90deg fittings 'tight' to screw in for you? What other issues are you having? I plan on checking for leaks etc before i put the underdash stuff back together.

They were all very tight. I can't get the brakes to bleed. Even with bench bleeding! Anyone have any pointers? I've read that you have to do both the front and rear at the same time- I haven't been doing that. Maybe that is part of the issue.

[dougie30]

That's the same conclusion I came to.



It takes 4 hours to fixture and 72 hours to cure. I gave it over 12 hours before I put any pressure.

So if I understand correctly put the sealant on the threads, thread them in hand tight (anaerobic won't dry in the open air) then wait 12 hours to torque them?

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

[dougie30]

They were all very tight. I can't get the brakes to bleed. Even with bench bleeding! Anyone have any pointers? I've read that you have to do both the front and rear at the same time- I haven't been doing that. Maybe that is part of the issue.

Mine bleed and have fluid coming through and I'm doing the front only

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

[Q8y_drifter]

I still retain that no brake line should ever need sealant. Should be a purely mechanical connection. Metal on metal.

I've no doubt it will fix leaks, but there should be no leaks. If you have leaks, you have the wrong or damaged fittings.

Although the more i read the more it seems everyone puts that thread sealant on NPT fittings on wilwood brakes. Seems counter intuitive.

I always thought the same and ran it the first time without any sealant. It sealed and worked fine, but there would always be a drop of two after a few days. Redid the lines and no more leaks. The below is an interesting read

http://www.loctite-success.com.au/content/uag/oneloctite-campaign/australia/www/en/whitepapers/_jcr_content/par/download_5/file.res/High%20pressure%20leak%20prevention%20improved%20performance%20and%20reliability%20from%20anaerobic%20thread%20sealing%20compounds.pdf

So do I put the sealant on and let it sit or put the sealant on thread it in the master cylinder then let it sit?

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

I put sealant on the fittings, torqued them into the master cylinders and waited a few days before I ran any fluid through the system. (use only a small amount and avoid the very first couple of threads, the seal is created mechanically by the taper design, the sealant is for sealing voids in the threads).

For anyone using the Wilwood pedal box, bench bleed the master cylinders first! I spent a lot of time trying to get all the air out from the system the first time around because I didn't do that.

[dougie30]

I always thought the same and ran it the first time without any sealant. It sealed and worked fine, but there would always be a drop of two after a few days. Redid the lines and no more leaks. The below is an interesting read

http://www.loctite-success.com.au/content/uag/oneloctite-campaign/australia/www/en/whitepapers/_jcr_content/par/download_5/file.res/High%20pressure%20leak%20prevention%20improved%20performance%20and%20reliability%20from%20anaerobic%20thread%20sealing%20compounds.pdf

I put sealant on the fittings, torqued them into the master cylinders and waited a few days before I ran any fluid through the system. (use only a small amount and avoid the very first couple of threads, the seal is created mechanically by the taper design, the sealant is for sealing voids in the threads).

For anyone using the Wilwood pedal box, bench bleed the master cylinders first! I spent a lot of time trying to get all the air out from the system the first time around because I didn't do that.

Awesome info, wish I knew this earlier thank you!

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

[dasmanschaft012]

For anyone using the Wilwood pedal box, bench bleed the master cylinders first!

oops too late:(

[dougie30]

oops too late:(

Same here did yours bleed?

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

[jpod999]

Bench bleed them in the car.


photos uploaded

Just hold your finger over the end of the brake line inside the engine bay.

[dougie30]

Bench bleed them in the car.


photos uploaded

Just hold your finger over the end of the brake line inside the engine bay.

Awesome didn't know of that either.. haha

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

[jpod999]

Read through the instructions that came with your Wilwood parts, it's all there!

[1990m3]

teflon tape or similar brush on thread sealant is required for NPT fittings. Without thread sealant you will have leaks. A high quality teflon tape should be fine, I've switched to a brush on sealer on all my machine parts (not car related) and leaks are gone as well the sealant doesn't deteriorate like tape can over time. Just make sure if you use the brush on type to wipe it into the threads and clean off the excess to prevent any of it from getting into your brake system.

[dougie30]

Update: the permatex sealant worked, now it's leaking from 35 other spots... 😂

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

[jpod999]

Keep going, make sure all your brake nuts are tight- there's a lot to tighten! Update on my situation: I just successfully got my brakes bled!

[dougie30]

Keep going, make sure all your brake nuts are tight- there's a lot to tighten! Update on my situation: I just successfully got my brakes bled!

Nice! I have a pedal too, it stops the car but just alot of drips

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

[dasmanschaft012]

Update: the permatex sealant worked, now it's leaking from 35 other spots...

how are there so many leaks?? it seems like a fairly simple system to me...