you sir are a mad man... I like it.
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M62B44,M60B40 heads & cams, Eaton M112 (now with NOS)
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Had mismatched parts, the jaguar intercoolers wouldn't fit the lower manifolds. I figure the intercoolers were from a 4.2L XKR. Sourced a set of earlier intercoolers from XJ8 and fit like they should.
Now to clean them up and paint the intercoolers. I'm going for metalcast red intercoolers with silver "Supercharged" lettering, silver outlet duct with red "V8",
Things left To-Do:
Timing covers (waiting on hardware)
Degree in cam timing (waiting on timing covers)
Install lower oil pan (waiting for rest of engine in case hardware drops)
Source M60B40 valve covers, paint them black
Make intake manifold gaskets for jaguar parts
Flip supercharger pulley to line up to BMW pulleys
Cut off rear supercharger mount provision and modify for adapter mounts
Block off unused ports on Jag parts
Get BMW alt and starter
Measure and source drive belt
Order or make 4 bolt exhaust flanges to adapt S65 exhaust manifolds to M60 heads.
Make wiring harness, wire up to standalone EFI
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Had a chance to dial in cam timing; Set up true TDC with dial indicator, marked dampner for future ignition timing alignment. Installed aftermarket cam timing blocks and locked cams down.
Installed degree wheel to dampner, used some scrap aluminum stock bolted to timing cover and marked TDC
Spun the engine over by hand and marked cam timing events using both 1mm and .1mm valve lift measurements. Then spun it and measured again for consistency.
Checking cyl#1 intake & exhaust, then cyl#6 to get all four cams. This way I wouldn't need to move the degree wheel since cyl 1&6 are 360 degrees apart from each other. Found that bank1 was 2 degrees retard from bank2, I liked the cam timings for bank2 so I set up TDC with +2 advance and then re-timed bank1 cams with timing blocks. Checked to make sure cam timings from both banks were identical.
When it was all said and done here's my measured cam specs:
@.1mm lift:
Intake opens 12° BTDC / Intake closes 48° ABDC
Exhaust opens 48° ABDC / Exhaust closes 12° ATDC
240°/240° duration -108° intake centerline / 108° lobe separation
@1mm lift:
Intake opens 2° ATDC / Intake closes 33° ABDC
Exhaust opens 33° BBDC / Exhaust closes 7° BTDC
211°/206° Duration - 107.5° Intake centerline / 108.75° lobe separation
I'm getting the impression the cam has asymetrical lobes and a more agressive intake valve opening ramp compared to exhaust thus the 1mm timing event threw off the ICL & LSA.
From my understanding when figuring out Dynamic Compression we use advertised cam durations @ .1mm (for reasons unknown to me, you'd think it's not enough valve lift through the lifter for any compression loss) giving this project a DCR of 8.02:1 (at my elevation). A bit higher then I comfortably want to run with the supercharger but I'm gonna send it.Last edited by Mykk540i/6; 05-30-2018, 09:48 AM.
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What kind of PSI are you planning on running/what are your plans for fuel? 8.02:1 should be fine for anything under (very loose numbers here, but I think they're kind of conservative) 12-15psi, as long as you're running at least 93 octane fuel, no?
Again, I know very little about this shit but I think its really cool
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I'm planning for 8-10psi. Since this is my first boosted engine I'm still learning, but I usually aim for 9:1 dynamic compression usually by way of 11:1+ static compression and big cams.
With the supercharger, 8psi bumps 8.2:1 dynamic up to 12.38:1 Dynamic, way beyoind pump gas in my experience. however, it's boost and it must behave differently then to treat it like a compression value. I mean guys run more than this on a regular basis.
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I ran into some oil canister issues, I wanted an E34 style canister to mount to the engine but I believe my timing donor engine came from a 7 series as the canister was remote mount off the engine and they provisions in timing covers were there to mount an E34 style canister. Plus the oil hoses were totally different between canisters. Instead I opt'd for a universal hot rodders style dual spin on filter set up that somehow amazingly bolted up to provisions already in the block:
I need to change the 1/2" ID hose over to 3/4" ID to fit the cut oil tubes and put a little flare in the tubes to secure the hoses. I'm thinking steel braided hose, looks good and won't rub through against brackets, alternator, etc..
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