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M6x swap clearance between subframe and pan

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    M6x swap clearance between subframe and pan

    Good day r3v, need a little help with my swap.
    M60 v8 from 540i
    Oil pan has been notched
    Subframe top steering rack mounting tabs will be cut and welded low for the purple tag e46 rack

    I will be making welding my own mount brackets using original 540i engine mounts
    I would like to know what should the space between subframe and pan be?

    I plan on using the original 540i reservoir for cooling system so would like my engine just high enough for that to fit .

    Basically I have a complete donor car so I would like to make use of whatever I can.
    Thanks guys
    Last edited by slum dog; 08-05-2018, 02:35 AM. Reason: Error fix

    #2
    This is were I am now ,would like some experienced input
    Thanks
    Attached Files

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      #3
      Leak test that pan!
      There are couple of pics in my build see sig below
      Ps. Leak test the oil pan
      I used solid mnts to avoid wondering if that rubber/fluid stk one was collapsing
      My CA legal M60 swap

      The happening in our garage

      Comment


        #4
        I'd probably leave a ~1/2" gap between the pan and the highest point of the subframe/steering rack area. If your mounts settle, you could always add big washers between the rubber mount and mount arm to raise the engine. Try to bring the engine down is much harder...

        I ran new OEM mounts for a while, they are very stiff, as far as not allowing much engine movement. I switched to Poly mounts, which are stiffer yet, but do allow a bit of vibration. I could probably have an 1/8" pan-to-subframe gap, and still not have contact under load.

        Also keep an eye on the distance between the rack and the vertical part of the oil pan. I believe I have less than 1/2" there as well.
        85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
        e30 restoration and V8 swap
        24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

        Comment


          #5
          Similar to above. I probably have less than 1/2" gap both on the vertical and horizontal axis. I do however have solid engine mounts.

          Sent from my BND-L34 using Tapatalk

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by 36brua View Post
            Leak test that pan!
            There are couple of pics in my build see sig below
            Ps. Leak test the oil pan
            I used solid mnts to avoid wondering if that rubber/fluid stk one was collapsing
            Yeah leak test was done the guy who did my pan heated up some oil poured it in and a minute later 3pin holes leaks were seen he has corrected this since.

            I did see your thread, great stuff its a pity you don't have pics of your m60 manifolds this is my direction forward making use of whatever I can that came with the donor car

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by JGood View Post
              I'd probably leave a ~1/2" gap between the pan and the highest point of the subframe/steering rack area. If your mounts settle, you could always add big washers between the rubber mount and mount arm to raise the engine. Try to bring the engine down is much harder...

              I ran new OEM mounts for a while, they are very stiff, as far as not allowing much engine movement. I switched to Poly mounts, which are stiffer yet, but do allow a bit of vibration. I could probably have an 1/8" pan-to-subframe gap, and still not have contact under load.

              Also keep an eye on the distance between the rack and the vertical part of the oil pan. I believe I have less than 1/2" there as well.
              Jgood there's nothing I can say that probably hasn't been said
              you, your car, build thread is what inspired me to do this few years ago. I am sure many others as well.
              Funny thing is I read your thread again last night to refresh my memory, after I asked for some input and here you are.

              Poly mounts I would love to use but these are pricey here in South Africa anything imported taxes and clearance custom fees is ridiculous, family first and on a budget, new OEM mounts I will use for now. Cheers J

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by dothadance View Post
                Similar to above. I probably have less than 1/2" gap both on the vertical and horizontal axis. I do however have solid engine mounts.

                Sent from my BND-L34 using Tapatalk
                Also been through your thread looking forward to joining the M6x swapped family and if I can get this swap going believe me I will dothadance

                Thanks

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