Bizarre Crank, No start Issue.

[ThomasE30]

Hello, I recently finished my motronic 1.3 and frankensttroker setup on my 85' 325e late last year and am running into issues getting it to start. I am using a motronic 1.1 harness (I believe it is an auto harness), with an 885 head, upgraded cam, and HD rockers, along with the condor stroker upgrade conversion harness and a 1.3 SSSquid Chipped ECU and I just got another stock 173 ECU as a test because I thought the SSSQuid one was bad.

I was able to get the car to crank, verified the fuel pump and coil both work, and everything should be working. I am getting NO ICV buzz at all and NO fuel pump buzzing, although I did at one point, but can't remember what caused them both to stop.
I have a replacement crank sensor I have yet to install but didn't think that's the issue. Using both ECUs provide me the same result. I have replaced all three relays in the engine bay and verified they do click and get power.

I have been using the E30Zone troubleshoot guide as my main resource (Engines Troubleshoot - E30 Zone Wiki). Following the flowchart leads me either to "replace ECU" which I have done with this new ECU and no luck. Pin 27 on the ECU harness receives 12v with the key on and that leads to replacing the ECU. I have no clue what I should test so any help is appreciated. I don't know why I do not hear the fuel pump or the ICV but both those and the coil work as they are relatively new, or have been tested with an inline blub on the coil and by jumping the fuel pump relay.

(9) Solving an Unusual Intermittent Crank No Start on BMW E30 | Budget E30 Restoration Ep. 4 - YouTube
this was my next best guess, maybe it's something with the OBC or immobilizer???
I have a 13 button OBC but don't know the code and I don't really know if it even works. I have never been able to change anything with it even using the reset button and recently it's been blank.

[It's Soda Not Pop]

The 13 OBC can cause a lot of headache. You can cut splice the green wire (I believe it's green) and loop it.

[It's Soda Not Pop]

https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical/49808-obc-immobilizer-bypass

[ThomasE30]

The 13 OBC can cause a lot of headache. You can cut splice the green wire (I believe it's green) and loop it.

Just wanted to let you know. I finally got around to putting my gas tank back in, hooking up all new fuel lines and welding in some new floor pans. This fixed the issue after I got everything done. I finally have fuel and spark. Still need to figure out why the engine is not starting but I’m just glad there is sign of fuel and spark.

‼️‼️TO ANYONE DEALING WITH CRANK, NO FUEL AND NO SPARK‼️‼️

the solution as above stated is to go underneath the drivers side of the dash (LHD US car) and find a box that is held onto the firewall by two plastic nuts with. This box is what I guess controls the OBC and immobilizer. It will have two plugs going into it. One of the plug has 2 green wires that are apart of the same plug housing. What I did and many other people have said worked is cut the green wires, or remove them somehow from the plug housing, and splice them together. This instantly gave me my fuel and spark back. Still having issues getting the engine to start but I am now getting fuel and spark when I crank. I do not have the fuel pump making a noise with the key in the ignition, or the ICV buzzing. I need the engine cranking for the fuel pump to actually pump and prime.

[It's Soda Not Pop]

Just wanted to let you know. I finally got around to putting my gas tank back in, hooking up all new fuel lines and welding in some new floor pans. This fixed the issue after I got everything done. I finally have fuel and spark. Still need to figure out why the engine is not starting but I’m just glad there is sign of fuel and spark.

‼️‼️TO ANYONE DEALING WITH CRANK, NO FUEL AND NO SPARK‼️‼️

the solution as above stated is to go underneath the drivers side of the dash (LHD US car) and find a box that is held onto the firewall by two plastic nuts with. This box is what I guess controls the OBC and immobilizer. It will have two plugs going into it. One of the plug has 2 green wires that are apart of the same plug housing. What I did and many other people have said worked is cut the green wires, or remove them somehow from the plug housing, and splice them together. This instantly gave me my fuel and spark back. Still having issues getting the engine to start but I am now getting fuel and spark when I crank. I do not have the fuel pump making a noise with the key in the ignition, or the ICV buzzing. I need the engine cranking for the fuel pump to actually pump and prime.

I'm glad that it's working somewhat now. Maybe this can help you as well

https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/e30-faq-and-diy/333798-diagnostics-tips-tricks-by-jim-levie-e30-jedi-master

[ThomasE30]

I'm glad that it's working somewhat now. Maybe this can help you as well

https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...30-jedi-master

thank you again. I have fixed some leaky fuel lines and now I have an issue where when I am cranking, I have to press the gas pedal down for it to try and fire and start and it will die when you stop turning the key. It seems like a fuel issue but I have heard from some people after describing my issue it may have to do with my ICV and fuel pump not buzzing/priming when the key is in RUN. They both use to but not now for some reason. they both seem to work but only after you start cranking the engine. Someone said that since I have to press the gas pedal, I’m bypassing the ICV since it’s now not at “idle” according to the TPS.

[It's Soda Not Pop]

Is your DME chipped? Did you say that you replaced the main and fuel pump relay? Also your ignition switch could be bad. Have you tried wiggling your connector and wiring on the fuel pump itself while you are cranking and after it starts up. My fuel pump connector acts up from time to time and I can wiggle it and it get it to start. (I have new wiring and relay that I'm going to wire it directly to the battery later on)

[ThomasE30]

Is your DME chipped? Did you say that you replaced the main and fuel pump relay? Also your ignition switch could be bad. Have you tried wiggling your connector and wiring on the fuel pump itself while you are cranking and after it starts up. My fuel pump connector acts up from time to time and I can wiggle it and it get it to start. (I have new wiring and relay that I'm going to wire it directly to the battery later on)

The DME has a SSSQUID chip meant for the stock bottom 2.7 and 2.5 top end. I do have a stock DME though as well. All 3 of the relays in the engine bay have been replaced new. I’ve tried wiggling the ignition switch but the clip holding it is cracked so I have it ghettorigged with a zip tie, doesn’t seem to help if I wiggle it though. I’ll try to wiggle the fuel pump. To me it seems like since I have to hold the gas pedal down a little bit, it would be something with the TPS or ICV. The ICV doesn’t make any noise when the key is in the 2 ignition positions before cranking so idk.

[It's Soda Not Pop]

The ICV should be buzzing on the 2nd position of the switch. So either the wiring is bad or the ICV has shit the bed.

[It's Soda Not Pop]

You could take a coin and make a small hole in it. Then use it to block off the small hose where the ICV goes into the throttle body. Basically you're giving the throttle body a small hole to breath thorough while the throttle plate is closed. Making the car idle. See if the car will idle without the ICV.