CSB Swap for E36 Driveshaft + ZF320 in Early Chassis

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  • Panici
    Moderator
    • Dec 2009
    • 2316

    #1

    CSB Swap for E36 Driveshaft + ZF320 in Early Chassis

    Hey all,
    I found a gentleman who is making an upgraded driveshaft for the E36 328i/M3.
    https://www.hdtautoparts.com/product...-zf-driveshaft
    These are equipped with the E36 CSB, and I would need to swap it out for the E30 style (early model built late 1986).


    I believe I used part number 26121225152 to do this last time with the stock E36 driveshaft.
    Does this sound right?
    Are there any other parts involved with swapping the CSB that should be replaced (snap rings etc) while I have it apart?
    Last edited by Panici; 02-16-2023, 07:28 AM.

    '87 BMW E30 325is Turbo

    '99 BMW E36 M3 - - - '98 BMW E36 328i
  • Northern
    R3V Elite
    • Nov 2010
    • 5049

    #2
    Part number looks right for an early model.
    I think the DS will have metal dust sheilds, I destroyed one on removal, but on a new driveshaft things shouldn't be seized.

    Looking forward to a review. Stock DS has been fine for me, but the price is pretty good.
    Originally posted by priapism
    My girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.
    Originally posted by shameson
    Usually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30

    Comment

    • Panici
      Moderator
      • Dec 2009
      • 2316

      #3
      Originally posted by Northern
      Part number looks right for an early model.
      I think the DS will have metal dust sheilds, I destroyed one on removal, but on a new driveshaft things shouldn't be seized.

      Looking forward to a review. Stock DS has been fine for me, but the price is pretty good.
      This would be part numbers for the dust shields:
      26111225088
      26111225089
      I will get them as well if they're not expensive.



      I will definitely review. Seems like a nice upgrade considering how much a new OEM driveshaft goes for these days.

      First test will be to see how it fits in a swapped E30. IIRC my OEM E36 driveshaft is nearly fully collapsed in the slip joint. Things are tight enough that it has to be completely removed to drop either the trans or rear diff.

      '87 BMW E30 325is Turbo

      '99 BMW E36 M3 - - - '98 BMW E36 328i

      Comment

      • Northern
        R3V Elite
        • Nov 2010
        • 5049

        #4
        Yeah I had the same issue when I ran longer diff studs, I switched them out and I can install/remove now, but it isn't as easy as it could be.
        Originally posted by priapism
        My girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.
        Originally posted by shameson
        Usually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30

        Comment

        • Panici
          Moderator
          • Dec 2009
          • 2316

          #5
          Update on the driveshaft now that I have some miles on it.

          Length works fine with the M52/ZF320 combo. Rear joint uses bolts instead of studs so installation is actually easier then stock.


          Had to grind the u-joint ears for clearance to the chassis, as the joints are significantly bigger then stock.



          Post from my build thread:
          Originally posted by Panici
          Installed an HDT Automotive (Corey Ellis) upgraded driveshaft w/1310 Spicer u-joints.

          Swapped out the CSB to an E30 unit. Unfortunately the driveshaft will not fit a bearing cover on the front-facing half of the CSB, and I ordered the wrong cover for the rear half.
          Since it sits above the exhaust heatshield I decided to run it without those cover plates.

          Also had to grind down both of the u-joint edges for clearance to the rear subframe/chassis.











          '87 BMW E30 325is Turbo

          '99 BMW E36 M3 - - - '98 BMW E36 328i

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