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    #31
    Originally posted by rs4pro3
    E28 535i, about the same thickness as the E30 radiator, I'd have to pull out the calipers to see for sure. It's a little longer and takes up the whole middle core support area.Then I've got a 16" electric fan wired to a dual switch thermostat to keep the engine cool.
    The m20 radiator is thicker - or at least the way it has to mount takes up a tad bit more room. The real reason for running a m30 radiator is the collant hose location. The bottem host is all the way at the botten passanger cornner on the 535 radiator. On the m20 rad it's about 2/3 the way down. If you found a hose that worked you can keep the stock radiator.

    Honestly I don't think that cooling is that big of an issue - Look at s14's with crazy HP running a tinny stock m3 radiator. Or turbo m20 guys never have to up grade. The m20 and e28 radiators are about the same in dimentions. The e28 just makes knowing what hose to buy easier.

    Oh also witht the e28 radiator you have to cut out some metal radiator supports on the front clip to allow it to sit down into the engine bay.

    I'm running my fan full time right now - plus my temp gauage is not working (I think ryan might know whats wrong) - eventually do a thermo switch.

    It's scary running a electric fan, cause if it fails in traffic you can get in trouble preaty fast.
    Originally posted by Matt-B
    hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

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      #32
      Originally posted by george graves

      I'm running my fan full time right now - plus my temp gauage is not working (I think ryan might know whats wrong) - eventually do a thermo switch.

      It's scary running a electric fan, cause if it fails in traffic you can get in trouble preaty fast.
      You need an M20 temp sender to get the gauge working.

      Mine run's between 1/4 and just below 1/2 way with the E28 535 rad,the fan only come's on in trafic.

      Andy

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        #33
        Ya that's probally it, I put the m20 one on mine, I'm not to worried about the fan as I purchased a good High quality Ball bearing motor one,made by Zirgo.
        85 325e 2.7 ITB'd stroker

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          #34
          Ely could you post (if you have ) a list of all the items you needed for this swap?
          im curious as to what i still need.
          '86 325

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            #35
            My fan is always on low speed as well here is some pictures of my new motor mounts

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              #36
              Looks good, FYI I found a solution to the Crusie control cable, the e28 535i cable fits fine and has the proper end to slid into that bracket on the m30 manifold.
              85 325e 2.7 ITB'd stroker

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                #37
                How hard is it to chang cables.

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                  #38
                  Super Easy, Unbolt the unit from it's bracket, On the side of the cable there is a Plastic Clip, Push down and Pull on the cable it will pull right out. Just unhook the cable from the String coming out of the unit and rehook the new one.
                  85 325e 2.7 ITB'd stroker

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                    #39
                    Originally posted by bmw335ist
                    My fan is always on low speed as well here is some pictures of my new motor mounts

                    now thats a sleeper!!!! :twisted:
                    '86 325

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                      #40
                      Thanks it is alot of work and Once it is running and I get all the bugs worked out next year the car will be fitted with the full Tec3/r total control and Race Logic’s traction control stand alone computer.

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                        #41
                        what tire size are you running, i bet its almost impossible to get any traction.
                        also how many psi will you be running? expected whp?
                        '86 325

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                          #42
                          The tire size will change but right now I am running 215 40 zr17 I am shooting for 225-245 right now it is not at the top of my list the car is almost done at the body shop and is going straight over to the exhaust shop for full 3 ½ inch pipe with no cat and a race muffler. I am still trying to get oval pipe that is what I am fighting I will now more when I get their.
                          Right now as it stands I have some things to work out on the car but it should not take more than two months to trouble shoot every thing, then once I am satisfied then I am going to pull some of the drive train out to replicate the parts that I need to assemble a complete 335is I might even sell a few if there is any interest.
                          But next year’s project is Race logic’s traction control and full Tec3/r total control computer.

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