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    #16
    I'm going out on a limb here for you but if you've checked both the ICV and vacuum leaks, maybe you should look at CPS. Sometimes it gives enough juice to run the car but it can also cause small glitches like a bouncing idle......

    Just a thought.
    @IRON-E30 aka Edwin:D

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      #17
      I took everything off the MAF,ICV and intake boot and found nothing. Im not quite sure where the brake booster is located.
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        #18
        ^^I called my mechanic last night and he told me that its probably the chip i installed in my car. He said he tried everything to get it from not surging and that to put my original back in. Has anyone else had any idle problems with after market chips?
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          #19
          I just unhooked the ICV plug on the bottom while my car was running and nothing happened. Is that supposed to happen? Also I checked the black elbow that connect it to the engine I didnt see any cracks but im gonna look again. Anyone have any suggestions about how to check for cracks on this?
          Originally posted by CR325IS View Post
          Would cleaning the icv help or what should i try first? You think the brake booster would have that much of an impact of the idle?
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            #20
            Ok i replaced my chip in my car back to the original...when i start up my car it idles for like 3 seconds at 5-600 rpms then dies unless i give it a little gas with the accelerator pedal. I ran a fault code reader and nothing came back. I have a brand new coolant sensor, cleaned the IVC and am not sure if its inop due to no1 saying shit about my previous posts, and i checked for vacum leaks and found none. I need some help. Any ideas?
            Last edited by CR325IS; 04-18-2010, 02:21 PM.
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              #21
              bump
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                #22
                mine does the same thing i cleaned my icv and it helped for a week or so then started again

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                  #23
                  only way to really check for vacuum leaks is hook the car up to a smoke machine.

                  unplugging the icv usually does nothing. that doesnt mean its bad however.

                  if you unplug the afm (the wire to the airbox), is there any difference in idle and operation?
                  AWD > RWD

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                    #24
                    auto should idle at 600rpm stick a little higher 7-800. As for idle to stall- check first for vacuum leaks. the intake bellow is the most common problem as they can have hairline cracks which can affect the air fuel mix and idle. also clean your ICV as suggested/AFM. throttle body linkage, butterfly. Then check fuel pressure. A pump which is dying will often run during idle but if it is weak or on its way out the increased in demand will cause pressure to drop and stall the car. one other things-the circuit board where your idiot lights are have two batteries. When these start to go your tach may become inoperable or erratic.
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