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More m42 engine noise *NOW WITH VIDEO*

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    #31
    shouldn't be too bad if it comes iwht a removable link, seperate the old one attach the new one to the old one and crank it through until the other end comes out always keeping tension and it shouldn't take more then 20 min, thats saying that its got a detachable link, if not then your screwed:( i havn't done mine yet and i hope i dont have too...

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      #32
      its a lot more work then that, all the sprockets and guides have to be replaced too, and there is no removable link. The worst part is that its $500...in parts

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        #33
        The raspy noise is not the timing assembly. If you hear grinding noises THAT is likely due to a faulty tensioner. If you have put in the updated tensioner, LEAVE it. The original M42 one was faulty. I did a timing rebuild, but did not bother replacing the sproockets. All in all it cost about $220 in parts.

        I have the rasp as well in my exhaust. There are not any leaks that I can find anywhere. I suspect that it is just the exhaust scavenging effect. When I got my car dynoed a year or so ago, I saw that there is a peak in the torque from 3-4K RPM (not as large as the uper peak, but definitely a noticeable one). This could be related to the header's geometry causing very good harmonic exhaust pulsing at that frequency range.

        Around November I will be sending my header off to Jet Hot for a coating. Prior to that I am going to re-weld all of the welds on it myself just in case there are leaks. I will let you know if that stops the noise, which means there was a leak. I might do it even sooner if I can pull another header from a wrecked M42 or something (cannot be driving my car around w/o exhaust).

        All in all, the rasp is annoying, but i highly doubt that it correlates to any mechanical problems. The car runs like a champ even with it.

        Transaction Feedback: LINK

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          #34
          i saw some infor about the m42's headers being prone to cracking you might want to check them out. I think you should have replaced the sprockets too buty did the noise stop? i will take some pictures of the sprockets and chain today and im goign to send them to that guy wiht the big 318 site and i guess i will post them hear too

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            #35
            Replacing the timing chain tensioner years ago got rid of the awful grinding noise (usually at cold-start...made the noise until the pressure could pop-out the tensioner piston). You cannot even buy the old tensioner anymore.
            I replaced the timing assembly just because the timing case gaskets were leaking badly. The sprockets showed very little signs of wear. Sent them through my ultrasonic cleaner & they looked fine.

            I too have heard of the M42 header cracking. That would be the only other explanation I can think of for the rasp. Hence why I am rewelding it.

            Transaction Feedback: LINK

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              #36
              (i think) Its time for a celebration bitches!!!

              my valve train looks to be in good shape. I might go to 10w oil or repalce the tensioner again next. I dont know what else to do but hopfully it is indeed in good shape and i have saved $500

              here is a pic

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                #37
                I just took out the tensioner and it seemed to have a binding right before its fully extended. I took out the the clip that keeps the spring from pushing the inner part out and now it doesnt bind. It seems like it should be ok that way but im not 100% sure. I have not put the rocker cover on or started the engine yet. Im going to paint the rocker cover and intake manifold but i might just do it next weekend.

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                  #38
                  makew sure to use acid primer. im doing my tensions tomorrow not sure if its worn out but im just doing it cause im hoping it willl eliminate some engine noise. as for exaust i bought another gasket for where it connects to the pipe, i did the heasder to block gaskets all torqued properly and i think it might be leaking out the o2 senosor hole.. or the gasket hole so w'ell see, if its cracked ill weld her up but that means buying all new gaskets again... so hopfully its not cracked.

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                    #39
                    well i just drove the car with the modifications i made to the tensioner (a coupe posts up) and it no longer makes the noise. Im real glad i didnt drop $500 on shit

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                      #40
                      i just did my tensioner but my old one looks to be brand new so i wasted 56$ how much did u guys pay for the tensioners, that seems a little much, that can. $ which is 46 american. thats with like a 40% discount.

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                        #41
                        i payed a lot more for mine ($70). and it almost ended up costing me $570

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                          #42
                          i got a hefty discount as usual tho it pays to be friends with the people who work at the parts stores:). it was originaly 95 which is probabyl close to 70 us. howcome it almost costed you in the 5's?

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                            #43
                            because it was defective and made all the right noises the valve train makes when its worm out

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