Major Electrical Problem, PLEASE HELP

[Dhohn]

Is the second power wire that is highlighted in the picture the power lead to the starter ?? That is the only main thing I havent had time to check yet.

[Dhohn]

The one pictured with the 13 amp draw in the first picture ***

[Jean]

post a picture of dmm showing 12amp draw..... this is hard to believe without something melting or getting warm...

[george graves]

Also, your pictures need a bit of clarification - I can't quite understand what it caption meaning is in relation to everything.

Did we already rule out starter solenoid?

[Dhohn]

The two power wires in the first picture where connected back into the distribution block individually and then amperage draw was measured at the battery using my big fluke meter. Set to measure amperage. The positive lead is connected to the battery cable and the negative is connected to the positive post allowing me to read amperage draw.

So each wire that is circled with text next to it in the first picture was connected back to the distribution block and amperage draw was read for each individually. This was done to try to single out where the draw was coming from.

The circled power wires have written in the picture what the specific amperage draw was reading at the battery for each separate power wire.

Hopefully this helps give a better mental picture of what i was doing. I will shoot video tomorrow to show the testing process to provide a hd visual.

[Jean]

And your car starts and everything works?

[Dhohn]

Everything works. I do have a check engine light and haven't gotten my code reader back from my buddy yet. He is supposed to drop it off tomorrow, so hopefully that will add more insight into the issues.

The car runs and drives fine, but you have to disconnect the battery every time the car is shut off so that it doesn't drain the battery dead. It will drain the battery to where the car wont start after approximately 4 to 6 hours.

[Jean]

pull the defroster switch or fuse, and maybe blower motor fuse and aux fan fuse/relay?

I can't think of anything else that can draw that much current. rear defroster is possible as it won't make any noise.... starter solenoid not likely if the car starts etc normally ...but the aux fan resistor a "maybe"..... iono

this is a good one!

[george graves]

ABS solenoids? They might be hefty little guys that could draw that much - I've never worked with one.

It will be interesting to find out the culprit.

[Dhohn]

So the power wire showing the 13 amp draw is now resolved. I traced it back to the ecu. So i will have to track down a good ecu, but thats atleast one down.

I pulled the 4 relays I could find under the dash. the 2 for the hvac and then two under the driver side dash located next to the firewall. Also the wire that is carrying the draw to the distribution block in the engine bay and then back to the battery traces to the fuse box. It is located on the underside of the fuse box and leads out and as best I can tell goes through the firewall.

[george graves]

So when you unplug the ECU does the draw go away?

[StereoInstaller1]

I am gonna take a guess: bad alternator

[Kershaw]

alternator draws power when the car is turned off if its bad?

[george graves]

I am gonna take a guess: bad alternator

well, now that everything else is eliminated - where ya been Luke!

[Dhohn]

the alternator is still a possibility. I realized while trying to go through and make a list of everything I had checked that I had only removed the positive cable from the alternator. I am thinking that it may be possible to have the draw still come through the negative cable ?????

maybe im just frustrated and anxious lol