Car starts sometimes - IT IS FIXED - $542 later

[DarkWing6]

OK, so I've talked to James, Cramer, Nando.....etc and we can't seem to figure this one out. I've replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, and spark plugs(not really relevant). When I try to start it it sounds just like I have no gas (I do). Sometimes it starts, sometimes it doesn't, and sometimes it dies when I'm driving it. Here goes the long full story: I'm driving about 100 miles to the beach and it dies on me as I come to a light. It ends up taking 10-15 turns of the key to finally get it going. After that I make it all the way to the beach spend the night and all the way back without any problems. The next morning I get up and on my way to Federal Way for the fix it day I stop in Olympia (100 miles away) to meet Cramer. There were no problems on the way there, but when I go to leave it wont start. We troubleshoot for about an hour then before we head to his house to see if he had an extra fuel pump it starts. We risk it and head for FW. About 3 blocks from the meet it dies at a light. I call the guys and we push it there and troubleshoot some more then put a new fuel pump in it. It starts and at the end of the day I head home stopping for gas once and I make it no problems. Then I go to go out to dinner that night and it takes 2-3 turns to start so I take a different car. The next morning I drive it to work no problems, but then at lunch it dies on me and I have to get a ride back to work. I go to pick it up after work (5 hours later) and it starts up and I drive it back to work so I can replace the fuel filter today. After replcing the filter I start it and it still sounds it is having a tough time. It starts, but the engine sounds like its no getting enought fuel or something. What can I check next? Any help ASAP would be great. This is my daily/only car and I need it.

Thanks
Derek

[DarkWing6]

Just finished cleaning that thing Cramer told me to clean. I think it is the Idle Control Valve or whatever. It is the part that goes between the throttle body and the manifold. Still a no go.

[ryan_george]

What sort of condition is your rotor and distributer in? It's gotta be something ignition or fuel related. Possibly some bad wiring somewhere that works sometimes, and doesn't others.

[nando]

how about the fuel pressure regulator? that sucks, we all figured your car was a-ok.

[DarkWing6]

how about the fuel pressure regulator? that sucks, we all figured your car was a-ok.

Can I remove it and clean it or does it need to be swapped out altogether. And yes it does suck.

[nando]

I don't think they can be cleaned, unless it's clogged or something.

[DarkWing6]

The thing about it is that if I let it sit for 5+ hours I can almost guarentee that it will start, but if I let it warm up its almost 100% that it wont. I don't think that it would be the FPR because wouldn't either it works or it doesn't?

[ryan_george]

The thing about it is that if I let it sit for 5+ hours I can almost guarentee that it will start, but if I let it warm up its almost 100% that it wont. I don't think that it would be the FPR because wouldn't either it works or it doesn't?

Well why didn't you say so! That's a good sign that you've got leaky injectors, causing a very rich starting condition.

[DarkWing6]

The thing about it is that if I let it sit for 5+ hours I can almost guarentee that it will start, but if I let it warm up its almost 100% that it wont. I don't think that it would be the FPR because wouldn't either it works or it doesn't?

Well why didn't you say so! That's a good sign that you've got leaky injectors, causing a very rich starting condition.

The tech at my work says that that wouldn't cause it to die though. True?

BTW - How much would injectors cost me to replace?

[ryan_george]

The tech at my work says that that wouldn't cause it to die though. True?

BTW - How much would injectors cost me to replace?

Hm... yes, you might have a point there. Unless they are REALLY leaky. What's your fuel consumption like?
Used injectors can be had for about $35-50 on these boards or the 'Bay.

[DarkWing6]

The tech at my work says that that wouldn't cause it to die though. True?

BTW - How much would injectors cost me to replace?

Hm... yes, you might have a point there. Unless they are REALLY leaky. What's your fuel consumption like?
Used injectors can be had for about $35-50 on these boards or the 'Bay.

20MPG city and 23ish highway.

[Brew]

I'd check out the main relay and fuel pump relay.

You can see if the engine stutters or dies when you tap on them, but you may not be able to get the problem to re-appear. I'd replace them either way- they're relatively cheap.

[Jordan]

Most likely not your issue but.. fwiw.

I had a similar problem after putting the 2.8 in, and i was completely unable to establish a pattern.

I would be going down the road, and it would just die. No noises, nothing, just a quick sharp drop off of the tach.

Sometimes it would start right back up, other times it would refuse for hours.

It would always crank happily though.

It ended up being a loose wire. The smaller 12+ wire at the junction block above the engine bay battery box. The 10mm nut was never tightened down (just hand tight) when i put the 2.8 in. The nut had vibrated off, and the wires were contacting only by luck. Other times not at all, and killing power to part of the fuse box.

I replaced the nut and tightened it.. and all has been well.

[bddog]

I had a similar problem- fixed it with a new ignition switch.--Steve-

[DarkWing6]

I'd check out the main relay and fuel pump relay.

You can see if the engine stutters or dies when you tap on them, but you may not be able to get the problem to re-appear. I'd replace them either way- they're relatively cheap.

Already checked them. Switched them out tapped them all that. I can hear the fuel pump when I try starting it, so I don't think that is it.

Most likely not your issue but.. fwiw.

I had a similar problem after putting the 2.8 in, and i was completely unable to establish a pattern.

I would be going down the road, and it would just die. No noises, nothing, just a quick sharp drop off of the tach.

Sometimes it would start right back up, other times it would refuse for hours.

It would always crank happily though.

It ended up being a loose wire. The smaller 12+ wire at the junction block above the engine bay battery box. The 10mm nut was never tightened down (just hand tight) when i put the 2.8 in. The nut had vibrated off, and the wires were contacting only by luck. Other times not at all, and killing power to part of the fuse box.

I replaced the nut and tightened it.. and all has been well.

I'll check this out, but mine seems to have a pattern. If it is cold it starts, if it is warm it wont.