Car starts sometimes - IT IS FIXED - $542 later

[cramer]

strange Derek.. i thought we found the problem :( and yes the ISV won't effect it running and then not starting, just effects the rough idle issue you told me about.

Also during trouble shooting we pulled a plug and it was sparking, so it's gotta be a fuel issue unless the M20 is really picky on the type of spark it was getting (it wasn't a weak spark but it wasn't strong IMO.. again more testing can go through the ignition system)

So if its getting spark, and it's not the fuel pump, filter, relays.. i'd say the next step is check the lines, rail, FPR, and injectors.

[DarkWing6]

OK, so after talking with someone at my work about it I realized that everytime it has died it has been as I was coming to a stop or slowing for a corner. So this means it starts when it is cold, wont start when it is warm and dies when I downshift/shift to neutral. Guy at work was thinking vacuum hoses, could he be right?

Chris - You busy Friday? ;)

[DarkWing6]

I was talking to another guy and he was saying it could be a loose ground wire (like Jordan was saying). I haven't had time to go and look cause I'm at work, but where are all the wires I should check?

[cramer]

i don't see how vacuum lines would be an issue if it starts fine when it's cold.. the ground wire could explain the dying on corners.... for it not starting hot, does the M20 have a temp sensor for the cold start? It could be constantly trying to give you car too much fuel thinking it's cold all the time on startup. (this is a common issue with VW's, the blue temp sensor goes and it won't start/runs like shit if it does)

[nando]

I don't think it's vacuum lines either. if you had a big enough leak to make the car die, it would run like poop normally, but it seemed to run fine to me. (and it would have to be a huge leak, even pulling off the oil filler cap with the motor running won't kill it)

the more I think about it the more I think it might be the FPR.

and yes the M20 does have a temp sensor, it's right next to the thermostat housing. it should still run without it though, it just wouldn't run very well. you can always unplug it and see what happens.

[DarkWing6]

Well, now its not starting at all (the last few times I tried). That is probably due to it sitting for the last few days. I got it to turn over once, but it didn't start.

Would it be safe to pull both the ignition switch and the FPR off of my bros parts car? I'm saying safe as in will it work on a 2nd car or should I buy new parts, not meaning is it safe like the car is gonna blow up or something.

[cramer]

it's not an ignition switch, that thing cranks all day long. If a FPR is cheap, just buy a new one.

To test for bad grounds, run a jumper cable from the battery ground to the engine block (this is tough to do since the battery is in the back, but get long cables or use 2, don't hook up the power obviously ;))

[Nathan]

There is a ground strap going from the oilpan to the frame on the drivers side of the engine bay. Check that if you want to check one of the major grounding straps. Mine was broken because some fuckass mechanic (well someone anyway) stretched it to the wrong screw and it broke becuase of engine movement.

[DarkWing6]

FPR is like $70 so I'm hoping James can go pull it off Grant's parts car so that I can get Jordan to grab it on his way to come help me on Saturday. I figure why not grab the ignition switch too just in case.

[DarkWing6]

Here is the latest:
Well, Jordan stopped by last night on his way back from Kirkland and dropped off the FPR and the ignition switch from Grant's parts car. Thanks again Jordan. I got the ignition switch in and it does the exact same thing as it did with the old one so it wasn't that (check). Today I'm gonna put the FPR on, but Jordan is almost positive it's not that cause of a test I had previously done (I'll still throw it on just in case). Jordan told me he thinks it is electrical which means the hunt is on. Also, I would like to try a different ECU (tony wanna drive up Monday afternoon/night and swap yours in to check?). If it is the ECU then I'll get the one out of Grant's parts car.

[DarkWing6]

not the FPR (check)

[EverWiser]

Are you absolutely sure it's not a vacuum leak? When the engine is cold it gets extra fuel which may mask the vacuum leak. Once it warms up and the extra fuel isn't there, it may be just enough of a leak to kill it. Just my .02...

[DarkWing6]

I'm not absolutley sure.....what should I double check. And just to let you know it is not starting at all now.

So, I'm digging through the Bently and I remember that about a month ago I had my hood popped and I noted a loose piece lying around (the rubber piece picture on page 7-13 of the Bently) so I pulled it out cause it didn't seem to be doing anything (now I'm thinking that was a dumb move). That piece looks to guard wires and I'm looking at that and thinking that one of the wires it is guarding from something may have worn down over time and that may be my problem. Can someone guide me to what wires to check. The piece was floating around down by the alternator. I have looked at the 3 that I see around there, but have yet to find any imperfections to them.

Also, Nando, you said you had the same coolant leak that I did and on yours it leaked or could have leaked onto some wires that caused your car not to start. I think that is what I remember you saying in FW, but I'm not sure. If you have any idea what I'm talking about can you clarify please? Could that be the problem?

[nando]

no, my car always started, but it ran like shit when it was cold. that was the TPS that I was talking about, and it will still run without it, it just won't idle correctly. I would still fix that ASAP before something DOES go bad.. I still haven't replace the wires that got all wet and my car acts up once in a while.

[DarkWing6]

no, my car always started, but it ran like shit when it was cold. that was the TPS that I was talking about, and it will still run without it, it just won't idle correctly. I would still fix that ASAP before something DOES go bad.. I still haven't replace the wires that got all wet and my car acts up once in a while.

Ya, it doesn't really leak much anymore so getting my car running is of first improtance.


Anybody know anything about those wires protected by the rubber piece pictured on Bentley pg 7-13?