no HEAT, after waterpump seized....help!

[evil_twin]

... if you're getting constant air bubbles and you have been bleeding this for 2hrs and have been trying different methods, it sounds like a headgasket... i could be wrong, but that's what its sounding like. The BMW is usually pretty good about bleeding, and I believe that it self bleeds itself too.

Feel the heater hoses. If the shop you are taking it to is a competent shop, they shouldn't have a problem finding out what's wrong.

[audiquattrot]

With the engine off and ignition on, you should be able to hear the heater valve click as you turn up the temperature knob from full cold.

great i will try that, thanks.

[audiquattrot]

... if you're getting constant air bubbles and you have been bleeding this for 2hrs and have been trying different methods, it sounds like a headgasket... i could be wrong, but that's what its sounding like. The BMW is usually pretty good about bleeding, and I believe that it self bleeds itself too.

Feel the heater hoses. If the shop you are taking it to is a competent shop, they shouldn't have a problem finding out what's wrong.

the air bubbles have all been taken out. Initially when it was bled the first time, it was on flat ground. I raised the front of the car today, and the bubbles came out, and it was a constant flow of coolant after that. Tried it a couple times after that, and no more bubbles. Safe to say its fully bled w/ no air.

Thanks for the advice, hopefully i can diagnose this.....when it comes to HVAC systems, I'm completely clueless. I've been scouring the forums, trying to self-teach myself on this.

The shop I brought it to today was pretty certain it was the heater valve. Does this sit by the firewall (where the blower & heater core are?). I read a writeup saying it was underneath the center console which had me baffled.

[jlevie]

The heater valve is inside the cabin, between the firewall and the heater core.

[Farbin Kaiber]

My initial thought was the Heater Valve. Glad to see I was on the right track. Best of luck with getting it resolved, I know what driving without heat can be like.

[audiquattrot]

With the engine off and ignition on, you should be able to hear the heater valve click as you turn up the temperature knob from full cold.

I tried this today ....so ur saying if I turn the knob from cold to hot....and hear a click, does this indicate my heater valve is ok? I ordered a replacement heater valve with hopes that was the issue. I did notice today that on occasion, when turning the heat on I would feel a tiny bit of warm air....but then would go away

I know u mentioned that it could be the head gasket.....but trying to start with the relatively small fixes before dipping into that job. I would hate to do a job that big, just to find out that wasn't the cause.

[audiquattrot]

My initial thought was the Heater Valve. Glad to see I was on the right track. Best of luck with getting it resolved, I know what driving without heat can be like.

Thanks buddy ....hoping I can get this resolved soon too. Thanks for ur input

[audiquattrot]

do you guys see any correlation to the fact that my waterpump seized, resulting in no heat? I'm trying to determine if this was mere coincidence that this happened after the wp seized or if something may have triggered it to malfunction. I'm just trying to understand the logic behind the heating system.

I had my local shop replace the waterpump w/ a new unit, and it was mentioned to me that the radiator was removed in order to do this. Prior to my waterpump seizing, the heat worked 100%. No signs of it dying.

[Ceeker]

With regards to your case: the system is simple. Coolant flow has to be there to keep the motor at opr temp. Also for flow to get to the heater core so you get heat. did you also change the thermostat? and if so was the right temp range chosen as there are about 4 diff ones. get the 80 degree one. I had a cooler one in mine and it wasn't allowing the car to warm up enough and didn't get as good heat.

don't mean to jack the thread.

Here is my situation: I had no heat issue as well and ended up changing everything; lucky I had all the spare parts so the only thing which cost me money was coolant and a couple thermostats to try. I get warm air into the cabin after the car is running for a good while and with the recirculate button pressed in. The lower hose going into the rad from the therm lacks pressure and is warm at best while the other hoses are hot. after checking the rad the lower area was warm and up top was cold. This leads me to believe my rad is partially plugged.
Anyone have a similar situation happen to them.

[audiquattrot]

With regards to your case: the system is simple. Coolant flow has to be there to keep the motor at opr temp. Also for flow to get to the heater core so you get heat. did you also change the thermostat? and if so was the right temp range chosen as there are about 4 diff ones. get the 80 degree one. I had a cooler one in mine and it wasn't allowing the car to warm up enough and didn't get as good heat.

yup thermostat was changed to an 80 degree one. I'm going to try to unplug the electrical switch that controls the coolant flow to the heater core to see if it opens up. From what i read, by doing so, it allows the valve to open once unplugged (assuming there isn't another issue causing it not to open aka. clogged heater core).

i know coolant is flowing thru one of the hoses b/c it is hot, but not the return...so i've narrowed it down to some valve (opening/closing) issue....i think.

[audiquattrot]

so a friend and i were ready to replace my heater valve today. we went to drain the radiator first (to avoid coolant from gushing out into the cabin) and no coolant came out, so i couldn't even replace the valve today. The radiator looks to be plugged w/ gunk at the very bottom. we stuck a metal hanger to see if we could free stuff up, but there was no trace of coolant. Car doesn't overheat, so I suppose there is coolant running thru it. I know there is hot coolant going to the firewall since that hose leading into the heater core is HOT. Is there a way I can flush this radiator enough to drain the coolant (so I can replace this valve?).....or is there another explanation you know of as to why there isn't anything draining at all? The coolant tank is full at all times.

[evil_twin]

the car doesn't have to overheat for there to be a problem. If the car is eating coolant, there won't be coolant in there so the sensor won't read the temperature of the car. What color is the gunk? Is it milky? Sounds to me like the headgasket is still gone.

This is what I think you should do. Before you go and try to replace this valve, fill the car up with water. Bleed the system out. Let the car cool down, remove the radiator cap (carefully as it still might be under pressure). When the cap is removed, start the car. If there is air bubbles in the tank, your HG is bad. Smell your coolant tank and see if it smells like exhaust.

[Jean]

E30 cooling system is pretty simple, looks like you found half of the problem., I would start with removing the radiator, removing the valve and removing the heater core and flushing these out or replace with good parts.

Did you check if the seized waterpump had all of it's blades or did some go swiming in your cooling system?

Did you ever or PO use any stop leak systems? Possibly a reason why your radiator is clogged.... and maybe heater core as well.

[audiquattrot]

the car doesn't have to overheat for there to be a problem. If the car is eating coolant, there won't be coolant in there so the sensor won't read the temperature of the car. What color is the gunk? Is it milky? Sounds to me like the headgasket is still gone.

This is what I think you should do. Before you go and try to replace this valve, fill the car up with water. Bleed the system out. Let the car cool down, remove the radiator cap (carefully as it still might be under pressure). When the cap is removed, start the car. If there is air bubbles in the tank, your HG is bad. Smell your coolant tank and see if it smells like exhaust.

the gunk looks like wet shit (literally). its brown (not oil) & thick w/ sediments...(prob a mixture of all types of diff coolant from the prior owner)....but the coolant tank is full at all times. Checked for air bubbles several times since the first time (and absolutely no bubbles anymore). How do you suggest I go about flushing the system out w/ the tank already full to the brim?

i was thinking of back flushing the heater core by removing both coolant hoses going in/out of the heater core and taking a garden hose to it.

[Farbin Kaiber]

Find this.

GM P/N 12346500

Do what the can says. Read twice, work once.



P.S. - The acid neutralizer is in the bottom of the can.