I got the rotor off. I am not sure what size the screw is so that I can get a replacement and I am not quite sure how the heck I am going to get it out yet. Suggestions?
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EZ outOriginally posted by Gruelius -
This kind of bit worked for me, obviously you need to drill a pilot hole.
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^!
This is for the Floating Floating Brake Disk? Drill it easy out / Proper sises wedge. GL!Comment
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the screw is not necessary. it justs holds the rotor straight so you can put the wheel on and lug bolts in without fighting it. the wheel and bolts hold the rotor on, i wouldn't bother replacing the screw unless you're super picky.Originally posted by BillBrasky2007 CVPI, stock and slowOriginally posted by acolella76
1994 tercel, 5efhe swap, i/h/e
1984 t-type, 5.3/th350 swap in progress
My newest addition:
Rebecca Arlene, born 4/19/2013Comment
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If you do replace the screw, it only needs to be finger tight at best. No need to reef it down.Comment
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Anybody know the thread size and pitch?Comment
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Always use one of these to take those kinda bolts out. This is one of the best tools invented i think its saved me many times from stripped bolts.
its called an impact driverComment
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Agreed. ^^
In the past, I've removed frozen rotor screws with:
-slot ground into screw with dremmel and cut-off wheel
-squirt of PB or WD-40
-above mentioned impact driver with correct-size flat head
-boom - i fucked your girlfriendComment
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plus 1, my fronts where frozen on and i stripped them. drilled them out, no problem and diddn't reinstall them. on the rears i bought the impact driver and 1 good hit, out they came.sigpicComment
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copper anti-seize and finger tight on that screw. you'll never have it get stuck. whoever put it in there just wasn't very smart, or didn't care..Comment
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I botched it up about 4 years ago. I did not use antiseize and must have done my usual more than snug tightening. You wouldn't happen to know the thread size? The screws are 8x12mm, but I need to know the thread pitch.Comment
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