I am going to tackle my guibo and CSB this weekend or next (depends when parts arive), it looks pretty straightforward, I'd imagine taking the exhaust off would be the toughest part, any tips or things I should know before hand? I can't seem to find any DIY's online but i'm hopefully grabbing a bentley manual before I start.
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Any tips on guibo/center support bearing DIY?
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In almost all cases a failure of the rubber mount of the CSB will be the result of binding u-joints in the drive shaft. You can replace the CSb and gain temporary relief, but the new CSB will soon fail. The only long term fix is to replace the drive shaft.
This is a pretty straightforward repair job. Just make sure that the paint marks on the drive shaft are lined up and preload the CSB by pushing it towards the engine.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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Well, I think the bearing has just broke or gone dry to be honest, the rubber surrounding it seems to be fine. Its not really a shaking issue with my car but the sound of a bad bearing, i've replaced both rear wheel bearings and it has gone away significantly, but there is still a bit of noise from the center of the car when driving above ~45mph and it makes the sound only under accel/decel, which is what lead me to think its the CSB.
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Remember that the guibo bolts in a certain way. See this Pelican article.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/tech.../E36-Guibo.htm
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yeah and those headers are gonna be a bitch to put on, stock at least.
anywho, onto the facebook link https://www.facebook.com/pages/Guibos/191266504273242
Originally posted by yert315Your mother is plug n play
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Just let it hang. Im a pro at removing the driveshaft. Remove the rubber hangers and the bolt that secures it to the tranny and let it hang. Remove the 4 nuts on the back, then the 3 bolts holding the DS to the trans. After that, remove the 2 CSB bolts and lower it/bend it in the middle and pull the front off the trans with giubo still attached. Then straighten the back half and slide it out from the diff. If you dont have an air hammer to split the shaft halves, use a hammer and a blunt chisel to split it.
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Originally posted by jw 325ic View PostJust let it hang. Im a pro at removing the driveshaft. Remove the rubber hangers and the bolt that secures it to the tranny and let it hang. Remove the 4 nuts on the back, then the 3 bolts holding the DS to the trans. After that, remove the 2 CSB bolts and lower it/bend it in the middle and pull the front off the trans with giubo still attached. Then straighten the back half and slide it out from the diff. If you dont have an air hammer to split the shaft halves, use a hammer and a blunt chisel to split it.
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holy hell this sucks! I just started on mine and the (6) exhaust downpipe bolts were a bear to get the wrench on them.
I would appreciate any advice on removing them for future reference but the only revelations I have gotten on making it easier is that the downpipe for cyl. 4 5 and 6 can be removed with just a 15mm box-end wrench and a steel digging rod against the ground for leverage , from the top of the car. I got the bolts for cyl 1 2 and 3 off from under the car, I dont have A/C so I had more room to work on those ones from below. :blowup: off to go drop the heat shields.
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My tip would be to make sure when trying to pull off the CSB itself make sure you take out the retaining clip. It can be dirty and hard to see.... Also when trying to pull the drive shaft apart rotate 160 degrees and it just kinda comes apart IIRC. Other than that it is pretty straight forward. Good luck it can take some patience.
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Originally posted by Sagaris View Postholy hell this sucks! I just started on mine and the (6) exhaust downpipe bolts were a bear to get the wrench on them.
I would appreciate any advice on removing them for future reference but the only revelations I have gotten on making it easier is that the downpipe for cyl. 4 5 and 6 can be removed with just a 15mm box-end wrench and a steel digging rod against the ground for leverage , from the top of the car. I got the bolts for cyl 1 2 and 3 off from under the car, I dont have A/C so I had more room to work on those ones from below. :blowup: off to go drop the heat shields.
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Originally posted by jlevie View PostIn almost all cases a failure of the rubber mount of the CSB will be the result of binding u-joints in the drive shaft. You can replace the CSb and gain temporary relief, but the new CSB will soon fail. The only long term fix is to replace the drive shaft.
This is a pretty straightforward repair job. Just make sure that the paint marks on the drive shaft are lined up and preload the CSB by pushing it towards the engine."I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj
85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER
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