Originally posted by george graves
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do e30s have a fuel reserve light?
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Originally posted by Sagaris View PostI would never know if my light works or not because I refill at 1/4 tank. I do not want the 21 years of nasties hanging out at the bottom of my tank getting pushed through the injectors in concentrated amounts.No E30 ClubOriginally posted by MrBurgundyAnyways, mustangs are gay and mini vans are faster than your car, you just have to deal with that.
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Originally posted by Sagaris View PostI would never know if my light works or not because I refill at 1/4 tank. I do not want the 21 years of nasties hanging out at the bottom of my tank getting pushed through the injectors in concentrated amounts.
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Originally posted by Killacortes View PostNice! Thanks bro.
Another question. When replacing the bulb. Is the bulb in the back of the cluster or do I have to take out the fuel gauge to get to it?
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Originally posted by jlevie View PostThe safe way to find out if the reserve light works is to pull the right side sender and allow all of the gas to drain out of the sender. The float will fall to the bottom of the sender and turn on the reserve light. If you do this with about a 1/4 tank of gas you can just lift the sender about half way out of the tank and you won't spill any fuel.
"jlevie saved my e30."
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Originally posted by nando View Postthey're both for the gauge. the passenger side also has a level switch that turns on the light.
The car sat and had a rusty tank, I can only figure the floats on these are toasted. Just want to verify before I drop a Benjamin on a level sensor.Originally posted by 325Projectzdon't listen to the diagram... listen to mr. swiss.
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you can't use a single-sender gauge with a two-sender gauge. they work on different resistance values.
the OBC range is also based on the switch. when it gets down to 3.5l, the switch turns on, and both the OBC and the cluster get the signal.
if you get no signal (gauge stuck at empty), first check both senders, and then check for the wiring. you need the power wire from the cluster (goes to the first sender), the signal wire from the 1st sender to the second one, and ground from the 2nd sender.
the other signal wire is only for the light, which you already know is working. that wire only goes to the 2nd sender on the passenger side.
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Originally posted by nando View Postyou can't use a single-sender gauge with a two-sender gauge. they work on different resistance values.
the OBC range is also based on the switch. when it gets down to 3.5l, the switch turns on, and both the OBC and the cluster get the signal.
if you get no signal (gauge stuck at empty), first check both senders, and then check for the wiring. you need the power wire from the cluster (goes to the first sender), the signal wire from the 1st sender to the second one, and ground from the 2nd sender.
the other signal wire is only for the light, which you already know is working. that wire only goes to the 2nd sender on the passenger side.Originally posted by 325Projectzdon't listen to the diagram... listen to mr. swiss.
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