Car won't start! Need R3v on this

[Cletonius]

No I didn't. Is that crankshaft position sensor? Sorry, don't know the abbreviations. Where is that at?

If you have an e car as your profile says, there are 2 sensors. One in front by the crank pulley and one in the bell housing somewhere. I have a late model with only one so I can't help on location.

[Cletonius]

Try a new main relay and fuel pump relay. check the grounds too.

I agree with checking grounds but if his tach doesn't move when cranking, the sensors need to be tested also.

[London]

If you have an e car as your profile says, there are 2 sensors. One in front by the crank pulley and one in the bell housing somewhere. I have a late model with only one so I can't help on location.

I believe I know which one you are talking about. When I was under the car doing fuel lines I had unplugged and replugged some of those lines. I thought one would be for the reverse lights and mine don't always work. I'll get back under and see if I didn't connect them all the way.

But would that cause it to run fine one second and then die after I check the sparkplugs?..

[London]

Quick update, car sat all night and this morning I tried it again and it started up. Is it possible that a sensor or something is being shorted out by the coolant thats spilling from the bleeder valve? I should have that taken care of early this week but I'm going to check the grounds and sensors as suggested

[London]

So I checked the grounds and bellhousing sensors. All appear to be fine. Is this the other sensor you were talking about? Follow the wire, I believe this is the camshaft position sensor?


I pulled that guy out and it was right under where all the coolant was coming out of the bleeder valve. So I cleaned it off and put it back and the car started right up, idled right and seemed to be fine. Could all of my issues have been caused by just that?

[ghalee30]

when my radiator hose blew some of the coolant "dried" over my coolant temp sensor and other sensors . had a rough start and the cluster would act up
once I cleaned it problems went away

[London]

Ok well now this getting ridiculous. I cleaned that off started the car up and it ran FINE.

No I go back out there and try it again and nope, won't start at all. It tries, and the tach moves but it just wont get going.

[London]

To the top, need this figured out!

[jlevie]

That sensor on the front of the engine has noting to do with your problems. It exists, on that car, to provide an engine speed signal to the diagnostic connector.

Lets go back to basics. What is the rail fuel pressure while cranking? Is there spark wile cranking?

[London]

I couldn't say for sure on fuel pressure. But I know fuel is getting to the fuel rail, and I know I'm getting a spark. Like I said, there have been a few times where it runs fine. And then for no reason a few minutes later it won't even hold idle. Just starts for a moment then stalls.

[jlevie]

Fuel getting to the rail is not the same thing as correct pressure at the rail. Measure it to find out if this is a fuel system problem.

[London]

How do I go about doing that? Do I need a code reader? Or what?

[dnguyen1963]

How do I go about doing that? Do I need a code reader? Or what?

Tee in a pressure gauge between the fuel line and fuel rail inlet would let you know the pressure.

[London]

Alright, I'll try and get my hands on one. Otherwise I may just be doing that m30 swap a little earlier

[London]

So I double checked the fuel pump relay and the main relay. I'm not 100% sure which is which, but the furthest left is the main relay correct? Anyway that looked like it may have been a little loose. So just to be safe I popped it out and cleaned all the connections. Well the car started up! Woo! Could that have been the source of my problems? Sadly I can't drive it cause I'm waiting on a new thermostat cover. Is there a way to be sure if the relay is faulty or if it was just because the connection was loose?