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    Cluster issues after dash swap.

    Everything worked (other than the odo) on my cluster before swapping the dash.

    After we got the steering wheel on, I decided to see if the cluster worked. We reattached the battery. At first observation, no tach. After fooling with the connections a bit, we reattached the cluster only for the tach to read low rpms such as the real 4K would maybe read 1K.

    We checked the connections again, tighted down the ~5mm nut in back, and put the whole thing back together since I was running out of time. Now, no tach at all. Then noticed that the econometer was not reading.

    After a day or so, I realized that the SI was not working...stomp test wouldnt work.

    This was the wierd one...After about 45 min driving to park it for the night, one of the green SI indicators stayed on with the key in or out. I pulled the fuse (21) and the green light when away but still dont have the above working.

    Although my dash looks amazing, I (again) created more work for myself. :hitler:

    I have checked all fuses several times. From my searching, most say batteries, loose connection somewhere, and/or SI board. I even read a report of a lone wire that connects to the DME but I dont remember that lone wire. It all worked fine before.


    Help! :(

    COTM

    #2
    The tach and econometer depend on the SI board, which in turn must have good batteries. If the cluster was disconnected for a while during the dash swap, batteries that were at the end of their life may have failed when un-switched power to the cluster was removed.

    The SI board has nothing to do with the stomp test. That only depends on the TPS, DME, and CEL.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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      #3
      i just put up a thread extrememly similar to this. But i didnt swap the board itself...just the plate over it, all the actual guages are the same. I reinstalled it, but the tach, econometer, thermometer, and computer display all dont work now. Every once in a while it will work, other than the thermometer. But the tach either reads 1500-2000 rmps too high, or just gets stuck at 3400 and stays there. Not sure whats wrong...any insight would be helpful. AND my cruise doesnt work...:P
      [oo=ll=oo] e30<3sigpic

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        #4
        I was the other guy in the "we" when doing the dash swap. I've had mine out and in a few times and have gotten it down to a science...but I had never done it on an airbag car which provided it's own challenges...

        That being said, there was a small grey piece of plastic that broke off from a mystery location during reassembly of the wheel that we couldn't sort. I know I heard a few things like signal cancellation...but I had never seen that part before.

        By the way OP, when digging around through my parts stash last night I found an extra SI board that appears to be in pretty good shape. I'll throw it in with your gears for the next time I see you.

        Somebody help this guy out so I don't spend all Christmas with a guilt trip that I f'd up his cluster. Please and thank you.

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          #5
          Pull the cluster and use meter to check the SI board batteries. I expect that you will find that they need to be replaced.
          The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
          Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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            #6
            Thanks Jim. So im assuming that the SI batteries are somewhat charged by the main battery. Any idea why on the green indicator issue?

            My plan is to swap out the SI board with known working batteries. I have read that even though the voltage is 3 the amps my be low and still my not have enough juice to make the cluster work properly. While im fixing that problem, I am going to put in new ODO gears too. Thanks Patrick!

            COTM

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              #7
              If the green LED lights up after the car starts then your SI board has some problems. With a working SI board, all LED should turn on when the key is in position 2 then turn off after the car starts.

              Here is a link to SI board replacement...

              Last edited by dnguyen1963; 12-12-2012, 12:47 PM.

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                #8
                Time to troubleshoot. First, I would remove the coding chip in front and reinstall it. See if there are any changes. Then try another chip. Then I would try a known working cluster. It's easy enough to swap out.
                "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

                85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
                88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
                89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
                91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

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                  #9
                  From what you described I would definitely suspect the SI board batteries. Keep in mind they are well over 20+ years old. If you have not replace them, they are surely at fault. Replacing them almost always fixes the Si service lights, tach operation, temp operation, and MPG gauge. Dead batteries will cause all kinds of weird operations of the cluster, including strange Si light behavior.

                  True that the batteries could have 3 volts still but extremely low output current. Basically, if they are the original batteries, consider them dead.
                  Owner - Bavarian Restoration
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                    #10
                    Originally posted by dnguyen1963 View Post
                    If the green LED lights up after the car starts then your SI board has some problems. With a working SI board, all LED should turn on when the key is in position 2 then turn off after the car starts.

                    Here is a link to SI board replacement...

                    http://blog.bavauto.com/12197/bmw-di...teries-how-to/
                    Well, everything worked as normal before the swapped dash but not anymore. Thanks for the link!

                    Originally posted by reelizmpro View Post
                    Time to troubleshoot. First, I would remove the coding chip in front and reinstall it. See if there are any changes. Then try another chip. Then I would try a known working cluster. It's easy enough to swap out.
                    I was going to try the cabrios cluster and put into my coupe but then I just know ill wind up with 2 clusters out of order. Im just going to fiddle with this one.

                    Originally posted by Gregs///M View Post
                    From what you described I would definitely suspect the SI board batteries. Keep in mind they are well over 20+ years old. If you have not replace them, they are surely at fault. Replacing them almost always fixes the Si service lights, tach operation, temp operation, and MPG gauge. Dead batteries will cause all kinds of weird operations of the cluster, including strange Si light behavior.

                    True that the batteries could have 3 volts still but extremely low output current. Basically, if they are the original batteries, consider them dead.
                    Ive read several of your posts through out the years on the matter Greg and thanks for your input. I still do have temp gauge.

                    Ill report back when I tear into it. Board will be inspected and batteries will be replaced!

                    Cheers!

                    COTM

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                      #11
                      Resolution. Just updating/ending this thread of my problems.

                      I swapped out my SI board for a brand new one and all is well in my e30. Tach and SI lights work. The problem with the CEL was that the light was burnt out...replaced and fixed. More info in my resurrection thread link below. Thanks for everyones help! Cheers!


                      COTM

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