Oil Pan Hit

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  • monoblanco
    Grease Monkey
    • Mar 2008
    • 310

    #1

    Oil Pan Hit

    Sup guys, today I hit a parking block with my oil pan. I see no cracks, but it is leaking. Should I just pull it out, replace the gasket and put it back on?

    :|
    monoblanco
    www.passportsoccer.com
  • lambo
    Captain Scene Points
    • Feb 2010
    • 10953

    #2
    If you're gonna pull it off, put a non-cracked one back on. Duh.

    Originally posted by SpasticDwarf;n6449866
    Honestly I built it just to have a place to sit and listen to Hotline Bling on repeat.

    Comment

    • ak-
      R3V OG
      • May 2009
      • 12422

      #3
      clean outside of pan, find leak, drain pan, JB weld crack handsomely, let dry, refill oil next day.

      1991 325iS turbo

      Comment

      • F34R
        sLaughter
        • May 2009
        • 12385

        #4
        Originally posted by ak-
        clean outside of pan, find leak, drain pan, JB weld crack handsomely, let dry, refill oil next day.
        This^ hairlines can get some JB love.

        And nice job parking on a block.
        ~ Puch Cafe. ~ Do business? feedback ~ Check out my leather company ~

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        Current cars:
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        • monoblanco
          Grease Monkey
          • Mar 2008
          • 310

          #5
          Thanks.
          I just assumed that if the pan was cracked I'd be able to see it.
          I'll just replace it. Thank u gents.
          monoblanco
          www.passportsoccer.com

          Comment

          • CHIF8008
            No R3VLimiter
            • Nov 2010
            • 3447

            #6
            yea, you may only be able to see it after its removed and has room to flex
            -FREEDOM- is cruisin at 80, windows down and listening to the perfect song-thinking "this is it"
            -The Beauty in the Tragedy-
            MECHANIC SMASH!!- (you all know you do it)
            Got Drop?? ;-)
            Originally posted by JinormusJ
            But of course
            E30s are know to be notoriously really really really ridiculously good looking

            Comment

            • mrgraphics
              Wrencher
              • Dec 2011
              • 221

              #7
              Once I take my epoxy fix off, I'm doing this:



              I have a bunch of sticks and a blow torch. Metal seal, no need to remove the pan. Just drain the oil overnight.

              Comment

              • bmwman91
                No R3VLimiter
                • Oct 2004
                • 3128

                #8
                I busted a hole in my oil pan back in 2006 or so. JB weld did the trick ever since, until I got a new engine last year. Just pull the pan, clean the hell out of it, use a can of brake cleaner on the crack/hole to get ALL residue out of there and slather some JB weld on the outside. Let it cure for 24 hours. Done. Just make sure that you close up any gaps in the metal. Now, if metal is missing, just replace it.


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                • monoblanco
                  Grease Monkey
                  • Mar 2008
                  • 310

                  #9
                  whats the torque setting for this?

                  M42 motor.
                  monoblanco
                  www.passportsoccer.com

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                  • bmwman91
                    No R3VLimiter
                    • Oct 2004
                    • 3128

                    #10
                    1.21 jiggawatts

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                    • Gregs///M
                      Forum Sponsor
                      • Mar 2012
                      • 2459

                      #11
                      If your going to pull the pan off, just replace it with a used one in good shape. From any non-lowered junk car should be fine.
                      Owner - Bavarian Restoration
                      BMW and European Electronics Repair and Restoration
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                      • monoblanco
                        Grease Monkey
                        • Mar 2008
                        • 310

                        #12
                        Originally posted by bmwman91
                        1.21 jiggawatts
                        :)

                        Thanks BMWman91, but my wrench is analog.

                        Any word of the setting? I already broke bolt threads in the past. Don't want to do it again.
                        monoblanco
                        www.passportsoccer.com

                        Comment

                        • bmwman91
                          No R3VLimiter
                          • Oct 2004
                          • 3128

                          #13
                          I'd have to check the service manual which I don't have here at work with me.

                          Honestly, I have always just made sure that all of the threads are 100% clean (a can of brake cleaner usually works nicely), then I put some LocTite on the bolts and then I tighten them to whatever feels right. The threaded holes in the upper pan are sort of prone to stripping, so be careful. That's why I recommend some Permatex Ultra Grey RTV (a THIN coat on both of the CLEAN metal surfaces) so that you won't have drips. The thign to be aware of with RTV is that you never tighten any boolt fully on the first go. Do a first pass where you get all of them finger / hand tight. Then make another pass on all of them to get them snug but not fully torqued. Then, make a final pass to get them to their final torque. I learned the hard way about this years ago when I cracked my thermostat housing by tightening each one fully from the start.

                          I also recommend starting with the middle bolts and working outward.

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                          • monoblanco
                            Grease Monkey
                            • Mar 2008
                            • 310

                            #14
                            perfect!

                            thanks!
                            monoblanco
                            www.passportsoccer.com

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