Obviously this is not ideal, but I don't have a working instrument cluster for my car and I need to make 3 trips tomorrow. About ten miles each. Is there any reason the car won't work without an instrument cluster? I just drove it around the block with no problems but I've heard that an SI board needs to be plugged in for the alternator to charge the battery. Thoughts?
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I've heard mixed opinions on this topic. I've done this before, drive with no cluster, and my car died within 15 minutes, maybe 20.
I have a "bypass" but note that I've never actually tried it myself.
In the blue connector, jumper the solid green and solid blue wires together. This powers up the alternators excitation wire and should enable the alternator to charge.Owner - Bavarian Restoration
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Originally posted by Gregs///M View PostIn the blue connector, jumper the solid green and solid blue wires together. This powers up the alternators excitation wire and should enable the alternator to charge.
As an amendment, I do have a gauge cluster and SI board. When plugged in, the lights on the SI board do come on. None of the gauges are working at all, though. Is this enough to get the alternator to charge, or does the gauge cluster have to be working?Last edited by mikeb23ft; 05-28-2013, 04:13 PM.
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The answer to your question is in the ETM in the section that shows the wiring to the cluster. But even without looking there, tying system voltage to the exciter input to the alternator will allow the alternator to charge.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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Originally posted by jlevie View PostThe answer to your question is in the ETM in the section that shows the wiring to the cluster. But even without looking there, tying system voltage to the exciter input to the alternator will allow the alternator to charge.
If there are easier routes to tying system voltage to the exciter input to the alternator, I'm all ears. I've got some wire and I'll try anything. I'd definitely prefer not to cut the harness leading to the blue pin that goes to the cluster to tie the wires together.
I really appreciate all the help everyone is giving me, though. If I could drive this car tomorrow it would let me get to my three guitar lessons and make some money that I really need to make. :-)
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Originally posted by jlevie View PostRun a wire from the coil positive to the small lug on the alternator. That will supply switched power to the exciter circuit. It would be smart to include a low power fuse (~1A) in that connection.
Could I not just go from the big alternator bolt (output) to the exciter circuit? Given me lack of electrical knowledge I almost hate to do any independent thinking in this situation
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my 318is I drove for about a week+ without a cluster. Battery never died, gas light still lit up to tell me I was low, worked out fine.1991 318is --- currently not road worthy
1991 318i ---- 308K - retired
Originally posted by RickSloan
so if you didnt get it like that did you glue fuzzy oil to the entire thing?
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the gas light is a bulb that 'plugs' into the cluster, it's not on of the built in bulbs, i took it out and let it dangle1991 318is --- currently not road worthy
1991 318i ---- 308K - retired
Originally posted by RickSloan
so if you didnt get it like that did you glue fuzzy oil to the entire thing?
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Even easier idea...Diagnostic connector under hood.
jumper alternator charge socket with battery 12&14Owner - Bavarian Restoration
BMW and European Electronics Repair and Restoration
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