OK, borrowed a compressor from a builder friend. Learned a lot in a hurry.
2 to 5 psi is plenty. You can press your thumb over the fitting and stop the airflow. We connected to the brake booster hose fitting on the intake (eta engine). We used a new roll of electrical tape for the intake boot plug. Unroll just enough tape so that it's a snug fit. Cut some visqueen to fit over the roll from the inside. Clamp it down. A can or a bottle that fits would have been a better idea, but this worked.
We used a gallon paint can (new from Ace, $5). Bought 1/4" hose barbs and air fittings, and used electrical nuts on the backside because they're very thin. Used 2 soft rubber washers and big flat washers on each, plus some silicon sealant. Made the holes in the can lid very tight so that the hose barb actually threaded into the sheet metal.
The mistake we made was using hardware store clear plastic hose for the smoke / engine side. We put the lid on and started fussing with the engine fitting, the heat inside the can softened the clear hose so that it flopped over and kinked. The regulator pressure was probably a bit high, and the pressure in the can blew the lid off. Pretty exciting - the neighbor kids were watching. So I think a vacuum hose is a better choice on the engine side.
A cut up cardboard egg carton makes plenty of smoke.
Before we even spotted any smoke leaks, we heard major hissing. Turns out the half-moon plugs on the back of the valve cover were totally loose and air was just jetting out of there. That explains a lot as far as mixture and idling. We'll fix that and try again for smaller leaks.
Meanwhile, with the valve cover off, we're sending the injectors to member MEPEH to rehab, and changing all the water lines. That will give us more room to see and change all remaining vacuum and fuel hoses.
2 to 5 psi is plenty. You can press your thumb over the fitting and stop the airflow. We connected to the brake booster hose fitting on the intake (eta engine). We used a new roll of electrical tape for the intake boot plug. Unroll just enough tape so that it's a snug fit. Cut some visqueen to fit over the roll from the inside. Clamp it down. A can or a bottle that fits would have been a better idea, but this worked.
We used a gallon paint can (new from Ace, $5). Bought 1/4" hose barbs and air fittings, and used electrical nuts on the backside because they're very thin. Used 2 soft rubber washers and big flat washers on each, plus some silicon sealant. Made the holes in the can lid very tight so that the hose barb actually threaded into the sheet metal.
The mistake we made was using hardware store clear plastic hose for the smoke / engine side. We put the lid on and started fussing with the engine fitting, the heat inside the can softened the clear hose so that it flopped over and kinked. The regulator pressure was probably a bit high, and the pressure in the can blew the lid off. Pretty exciting - the neighbor kids were watching. So I think a vacuum hose is a better choice on the engine side.
A cut up cardboard egg carton makes plenty of smoke.
Before we even spotted any smoke leaks, we heard major hissing. Turns out the half-moon plugs on the back of the valve cover were totally loose and air was just jetting out of there. That explains a lot as far as mixture and idling. We'll fix that and try again for smaller leaks.
Meanwhile, with the valve cover off, we're sending the injectors to member MEPEH to rehab, and changing all the water lines. That will give us more room to see and change all remaining vacuum and fuel hoses.
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