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Just picked up an e30. Need some questions answered.

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    Just picked up an e30. Need some questions answered.

    So I just picked up this 88 325iS with a 5 lug swap. I've got a few questions that some of you can probably answer.

    1) The passenger door lock has seized. I can turn it 45 degrees to the left and the central locking system activates. I cannot turn it to the right. The door is stuck shut. Advice?

    2) There is a whirring noise coming from the front of the engine bay. It sounds like some sort of bad bearing, maybe something to do with the fan or fan clutch or an accessory belt. It doesn't overheat. There is also a squeal at about 5k rpm in neutral.

    3) The steering wheel is crooked on center. Can this be fixed, or can I replace the wheel with a three spoke M steering wheel?

    Thanks for any advice, here are some pictures of my beautiful new (to me) machine!

    Sent from my Nexus 5
    Attached Files

    Alpinweiss II 88 325is | M20 | 5 Lug Conversion
    --
    Kyle

    #2
    congrats on the new car. I'll only answer #3 because it's easy.

    The wheel is held on with a single 22mm nut. Yes you can swap it, or just adjust the wheel accordingly. it's easy to get the splines messed up if you aren't thinking about it. Also, when you go to take the wheel off, loosen the nut, then loosen the wheel. After the wheel is loose, take the nut off. Otherwise you might lose some front teeth. ;)
    '84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
    NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
    Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi

    Comment


      #3
      If you're having trouble opening the passenger door, you can get it open by applying light pressure to the key in the "unlock" direction and pulling the handle. To fix the problem completely, you'll need to rebuild the lock cylinder and/or lubricate the latch mechanism.
      Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one? Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!

      Elva Courier build thread here!

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Jaxx_ View Post
        congrats on the new car. I'll only answer #3 because it's easy.

        The wheel is held on with a single 22mm nut. Yes you can swap it, or just adjust the wheel accordingly. it's easy to get the splines messed up if you aren't thinking about it. Also, when you go to take the wheel off, loosen the nut, then loosen the wheel. After the wheel is loose, take the nut off. Otherwise you might lose some front teeth. ;)
        Thanks for the tip! I've also noticed a slight clunk in the steering when turning right. There's a spot that requires just a little bit of extra force just after initial turn in.

        Originally posted by ELVA164 View Post
        If you're having trouble opening the passenger door, you can get it open by applying light pressure to the key in the "unlock" direction and pulling the handle. To fix the problem completely, you'll need to rebuild the lock cylinder and/or lubricate the latch mechanism.
        I've actually been able to turn the lock slightly while doing exactly this, but not actually open the lock.

        I'll probably end up getting myself a rebuild kit and do that over the next couple weeks. Any advice on lubrication with the door closed and door panel intact?

        Sent from my Nexus 5

        Alpinweiss II 88 325is | M20 | 5 Lug Conversion
        --
        Kyle

        Comment


          #5
          Door lock rebuild is a tedious but fun job
          1989 325is / 2.7, 274 cam, e30 M3 5-lug
          1989 LN106 Hilux / 3.0TD SFA
          1974 2002tii / stock
          2002 IS300 / 5spd LSD

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by mkcman17 View Post
            Door lock rebuild is a tedious but fun job
            Especially when you have to remove the door panel from inside a locked door, hah. Not looking forward to it.
            Last edited by kwseattle; 12-24-2013, 12:53 AM.

            Alpinweiss II 88 325is | M20 | 5 Lug Conversion
            --
            Kyle

            Comment


              #7
              At least this didn't happen to you...

              1989 325is / 2.7, 274 cam, e30 M3 5-lug
              1989 LN106 Hilux / 3.0TD SFA
              1974 2002tii / stock
              2002 IS300 / 5spd LSD

              Comment


                #8
                ^ best security I've ever seen! As a side note, the rebuild kit for the passenger side in a car with central locking is special-order only from Germany. I happen to have one I could sell if you didn't want to wait.
                Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one? Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!

                Elva Courier build thread here!

                Comment


                  #9
                  2) There is a whirring noise coming from the front of the engine bay. It sounds like some sort of bad bearing, maybe something to do with the fan or fan clutch or an accessory belt. It doesn't overheat. There is also a squeal at about 5k rpm in neutral.
                  This would worry me. While there are a lot of things it could be, one of those things is a failing timing belt tensioner. And that will result in a lot of damage if it goes completely.

                  Start by removing all the front belts, and running the car (cold, for a short time)
                  to see if it's one of them. If it's not, shut the car off, and replace the timing belt and
                  tensioner, because a few hours now will save you days (and $$$) later.

                  hth

                  t
                  now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by ELVA164 View Post
                    ^ best security I've ever seen! As a side note, the rebuild kit for the passenger side in a car with central locking is special-order only from Germany. I happen to have one I could sell if you didn't want to wait.
                    That would be awesome! PM sent.

                    Originally posted by TobyB View Post
                    This would worry me. While there are a lot of things it could be, one of those things is a failing timing belt tensioner. And that will result in a lot of damage if it goes completely.

                    Start by removing all the front belts, and running the car (cold, for a short time)
                    to see if it's one of them. If it's not, shut the car off, and replace the timing belt and
                    tensioner, because a few hours now will save you days (and $$$) later.

                    hth

                    t
                    Thanks for the tip. This scares me slightly as I don't have a proper set of tools or the shop space to do a timing belt job myself. I'm sure it could be done, but it might not turn out well.

                    Alpinweiss II 88 325is | M20 | 5 Lug Conversion
                    --
                    Kyle

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I've run into a few other issues that have arisen in the first two days of owning the vehicle:

                      1) Head unit and OBC have lost power (fuse?)
                      2) Tachometer went out... now I must get my SI board fixed.
                      3) Random check lights are coming on/going off including coolant, oil, rear lights. Stomp test = 1444 = no faults.
                      4) It feels like it's idling rough, but I don't have anything to compare it to but newish cars. Also since tach is out, can't really tell what it's doing.

                      Other things:
                      The shift knob doesn't like to stay on, it comes off on almost every 1-2 upshift, and the seats are very broken.

                      Any comforting words for the worried first timer? My decision to give up a (borrowed from my dad) perfectly working 2006 Saab 9-5 for this is starting to concern me.

                      Alpinweiss II 88 325is | M20 | 5 Lug Conversion
                      --
                      Kyle

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by kwseattle View Post
                        The shift knob doesn't like to stay on, it comes off on almost every 1-2 upshift,
                        Do you have a BMW knob? If so, when you put it on, you have to put pressure on it til it clicks in place. if this isn't the issue, then the tab inside might be broken and you need a new knob
                        Web Designer / Front End Developer
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                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by ky0u View Post
                          Do you have a BMW knob? If so, when you put it on, you have to put pressure on it til it clicks in place. if this isn't the issue, then the tab inside might be broken and you need a new knob
                          It is a BMW knob. The clip probably just broke, my friend was taking it for a drive and shifted a little too aggressively after trying successfully to get it sideways. He didn't listen to me telling him not to :/.

                          Sent from my Nexus 5

                          Alpinweiss II 88 325is | M20 | 5 Lug Conversion
                          --
                          Kyle

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by kwseattle View Post
                            I've run into a few other issues that have arisen in the first two days of owning the vehicle:

                            Welcome to E30lyfe. ;)

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by kwseattle View Post
                              I've run into a few other issues that have arisen in the first two days of owning the vehicle:

                              1) Head unit and OBC have lost power (fuse?)
                              2) Tachometer went out... now I must get my SI board fixed.
                              3) Random check lights are coming on/going off including coolant, oil, rear lights. Stomp test = 1444 = no faults.
                              4) It feels like it's idling rough, but I don't have anything to compare it to but newish cars. Also since tach is out, can't really tell what it's doing.

                              Other things:
                              The shift knob doesn't like to stay on, it comes off on almost every 1-2 upshift, and the seats are very broken.
                              1. The head unit and OBC do share a fuse, pick up a Bentley shop manual and reference it for the possible culprit. The manual will become a dear friend as time goes on.
                              3. The coolant sensor failing is pretty common on these cars, but if all those things started happening at once it sounds more like an electric issue. You can check the ground for the rear lights pretty easily though: remove the rear seat bottom by popping the front edge up on each side, then you should see the ground on the driver's side near the door opening. It'll have a couple brown wires heading to it.
                              4. Rough idle could be a lot of things, but intake vacuum leaks are the most common cause. Have a shop do a smoke test to look for leaks and go from there.
                              Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one? Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!

                              Elva Courier build thread here!

                              Comment

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