Heater Core Rebuild?

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  • bmwman91
    No R3VLimiter
    • Oct 2004
    • 3128

    #1

    Heater Core Rebuild?

    I am probably going to be swapping a crack-free dash in sometime soon. Since I will be in there, I suspect that my heater core is leaking somehow since I get a whiff of coolant when I turn the heater on sometimes, and there is a little coolant spillage on the firewall (engine side) where the hoses connect to the core pipes. Do I just need the 3 O-rings shown on RealOEM, or is there more I should replace in the heater core while I am in there?

    Any other maintenance items that I should consider doing while I am in there?

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  • vpilarrt
    R3VLimited
    • Jun 2006
    • 2096

    #2
    Could be the valve leaking.

    Comment

    • jlevie
      R3V OG
      • Nov 2006
      • 13530

      #3
      Pull the core and pressure test it and you will know whether it needs to be replaced.
      The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
      Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

      Comment

      • bmwm42
        R3V OG
        • Nov 2010
        • 6300

        #4
        Aluminum lines replace
        Originally posted by bmwm42
        PNW vulture pm me for parts
        Strategic nw e30 command

        Comment

        • bmwman91
          No R3VLimiter
          • Oct 2004
          • 3128

          #5
          Hmm, the little valve and lines are $$$. I guess that's just part of dealing with it?

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          • TobyB
            R3V Elite
            • Oct 2011
            • 5181

            #6
            I seem to remember that the core was significantly less than the tubing, etc.
            For $60, it's not a lot to change it.
            On the other hand, the core itself's not a big job to change. Up to you, I guess.
            They DO pop sometimes

            t
            now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

            Comment

            • bmwman91
              No R3VLimiter
              • Oct 2004
              • 3128

              #7
              I suppose that if I am going to bother then I should really consider replacing the core and tubes/valve. There's obviously some sort of leak, and all that stuff is 23 years old.

              Next question...there are "aluminum inlet" and "plastic inlet" cores. The plastic version seems to be the original OEM solution. Is one better than the other / less prone to busting?

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              • vpilarrt
                R3VLimited
                • Jun 2006
                • 2096

                #8
                They are both OEM.

                Comment

                • bmwman91
                  No R3VLimiter
                  • Oct 2004
                  • 3128

                  #9
                  Thanks.

                  So, I have noticed that the coolant smell when the heater is on happens when I rev the engine to 4k or higher. Seems like a leaky seal or crack in the core if the issue is related to coolant pressure. I suppose that I will be able to get a better idea once I am in there.

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                  • ///M42 sport
                    No R3VLimiter
                    • Oct 2003
                    • 3952

                    #10
                    hey do you mind posting pics? I want to get to this eventually too.
                    Renting my rear wheel bearing tool kit. SIR
                    http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c5...ps6debf0b0.jpg

                    Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

                    Comment

                    • 603Racing
                      Mod Crazy
                      • Dec 2010
                      • 612

                      #11
                      I had the same issue with both of my e30's. One had the plastic inlet of the heater core cracked. The other was leaky o-rings in the connection point at the heater core.

                      You can do the core without taking the dash out... it's easy. Just clamp off the lines on the engine side of the firewall. Then disconnect the lines inside the car under the dash (you will need a small catch can to collect the 12 or so ounces of coolant that will come out). You will also have to pull out the knee bolster and center console ahead of time. When you're at this point you may be able to determine where the leak is coming from before you pull the heater core.

                      From what I've seen over the years, the valve and the o-rings are more likely to leak than the core itself.
                      90 325i DD/Track
                      03 Durango 5.9


                      Originally posted by e30mpg
                      It is recommended to get new gasket but this is R3v and we just copper spray that shit......slap biotch on and tighten to tq.

                      Comment

                      • CorvallisBMW
                        Long Schlong Longhammer
                        • Feb 2005
                        • 13039

                        #12
                        I'm in the same boat (coolant smell and suspected leak) so I'll be tearing in to the same project pretty soon. I'll try to remember to take pics and post them up in here.

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