Replacing my gas tank soon... What else?

[Oats]

My tank is rusty so I got a replacement to put in. I figured while I've got the drive shaft and exhaust off, it would be a good idea to replace some other stuff. I'm still a newbie to automotive work, so what else should I take care of now so I don't have to remove things again?

[cabriodster87]

Fuel pump, filter, lines. Check your driveshaft.

[efficient]

The top rubber fuel lines.

[Oats]

Fuel pump, filter, lines. Check your driveshaft.

I'm definitely replacing most fuel related things. What am I checking on the driveshaft?

[jhaurimn]

Check the guibo and the center support bearing of the drive shaft.

[jwal]

The top rear brake lines. They are hidden by the tank near the subframe.

[TobyB]

Check the filler neck pipe, replace the filler hose and the breather lines.
There's a metal 'Y' pipe up there that REALLY likes to rust out, too.
And replace the rubber bib that goes inside the filler door.

This involves taking the metal cover off inside the right rear wheel well-
it's a pain, but worth doing if you're in there.

t

[SlamedIAm]

The top rear brake lines. They are hidden by the tank near the subframe.

This is a good one that I wish I had done.

Make sure you have new locknuts for the guibo (x6) and the diff side of the driveshaft (x4). I had to replace my bolts as well, I can't remember if these can be reused or not. It's worth doing your trans seals while you're in there if you have an impact to take off the flange. You'll also have easy access to anything shifter related if yours is feeling loose. Good time to flush the trans as well since everything is out of the way. I went ahead and did the diff too.

Exhaust will have to come down so if your mounts are worn go ahead and replace those. You'll need new lock nuts for your exhaust (x6 and these are a different size than the guibo/driveshaft) and gaskets (x2).

Guibo and CS bearing you might as well replace unless they're relatively new as you'll already have it removed. The centering sleeve is an important one I missed the first time but made a huge difference when I tore it back apart. Blunttech has it as # W0133-1801710. I'd also replace the trans mounts while you're there.

This is in addition to the obvious fuel lines and such. I also had to replace the braided line that runs to the rear passenger wheel well. That one is a bitch as its a tight fit and that area loves to get packed full of mud and rust out.

Be sure to have fresh gaskets for the fuel pump and level sender as well. Those love to leak when the gaskets go.

It's actually a relatively easy job. I had to do it twice (dented my new tank right where the pump sits about 6 months after the first replacement). A second set of hands helps a lot since some of the items (tank, driveshaft, exhaust) are quite bulky. The tank itself takes a little persuasion but the aftermarket pieces actually fit well. The reminds me that the grommets(is that the right term) for where the tank bolts mount will probably need to be replaced. If not you'll at least have to transfer them from your old tank to the new one. I think there are 8 but you should probably check realoem.

Feel free to PM me any questions. I can try to help you dig up some part numbers if need be.

[jeffnhiscars]

And replace the rubber bib that goes inside the filler door.
This involves taking the metal cover off inside the right rear wheel well-
it's a pain, but worth doing if you're in there.t

Ive replaced 2-3 of those and never taken the door off

[jwal]

Check the filler neck pipe, replace the filler hose and the breather lines.
There's a metal 'Y' pipe up there that REALLY likes to rust out, too.
And replace the rubber bib that goes inside the filler door.

This involves taking the metal cover off inside the right rear wheel well-
it's a pain, but worth doing if you're in there.

t

What is the Y pipe you are referring to? I have never heard of it, and I didn't see it when I replaced my tank :/

[jwal]

Helluva response SlamedIAm. I think I did most of that too, just too lazy to list it haha

[Oats]

This is a good one that I wish I had done.

Make sure you have new locknuts for the guibo (x6) and the diff side of the driveshaft (x4). I had to replace my bolts as well, I can't remember if these can be reused or not. It's worth doing your trans seals while you're in there if you have an impact to take off the flange. You'll also have easy access to anything shifter related if yours is feeling loose. Good time to flush the trans as well since everything is out of the way. I went ahead and did the diff too.

Exhaust will have to come down so if your mounts are worn go ahead and replace those. You'll need new lock nuts for your exhaust (x6 and these are a different size than the guibo/driveshaft) and gaskets (x2).

Guibo and CS bearing you might as well replace unless they're relatively new as you'll already have it removed. The centering sleeve is an important one I missed the first time but made a huge difference when I tore it back apart. Blunttech has it as # W0133-1801710. I'd also replace the trans mounts while you're there.

This is in addition to the obvious fuel lines and such. I also had to replace the braided line that runs to the rear passenger wheel well. That one is a bitch as its a tight fit and that area loves to get packed full of mud and rust out.

Be sure to have fresh gaskets for the fuel pump and level sender as well. Those love to leak when the gaskets go.

It's actually a relatively easy job. I had to do it twice (dented my new tank right where the pump sits about 6 months after the first replacement). A second set of hands helps a lot since some of the items (tank, driveshaft, exhaust) are quite bulky. The tank itself takes a little persuasion but the aftermarket pieces actually fit well. The reminds me that the grommets(is that the right term) for where the tank bolts mount will probably need to be replaced. If not you'll at least have to transfer them from your old tank to the new one. I think there are 8 but you should probably check realoem.

Feel free to PM me any questions. I can try to help you dig up some part numbers if need be.

Thanks for the great response! Part numbers would definitely be helpful.