I have broken two breaker bars and gone through a can of liquid wrench.....any tips? Is it reverse threaded or something or do I just keep returning my breaker bars
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My wussy half- inch rattlegun will even do it- 5 minutes later...
But yeah, 3/4" drive socket set from HF with a 5' chunk of pipe on it does the deal.
About the only HF tool I actually use regularly- if only as arbor press dies!
tnow, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves
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it's an ix guys. but removing the front is basically the same as removing a rear.
I've had one get stuck like that before. it was from overheating the brakes on a track day. I nearly taco'd a hefty 3/4" snap on breaker bar getting it off. the impact guy I had access to didn't even budge it. if we had broken that, the next step was to find a diesel mechanic shop where they work on big rigs.
normally I use a 1/2" breaker bar and a 3' piece of steel pipe. I also clean the threads and use a touch of copper anti-seize.
Originally posted by goldenbb View PostThe nut is a one-time use component, btw.
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Sure there isn't a lock plate? They are actually hard to see sometimes...
Pics from http://www.teamdfl.com/bmw/e30/rear_wheel_bearings/
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Originally posted by TobyB View Post3/4" drive socket set from HF with a 5' chunk of pipe on it does the deal.
About the only HF tool I actually use regularly- if only as arbor press dies!
Anyway, maybe I just got lucky with mine, but my fronts came off with a two foot breaker bar and the rears came off with my 1/2" gun. The drivers' side didn't get the surrounding clip/retainer removed cuz I couldn't see it through all the rust. Passenger side got removed though, but it wasn't any easier to remove.
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If the brass punch and BFH doesn't do it, the only way I found to get 2 of mine out
was with a press. And some rather- involved bracketry to hold things in place.
Some cars seem to be pretty easy, and others are almost welded solid....
tnow, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves
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