How do you apply solder on to the SI batteries, I tried and the solder is not sticking at all, just sliding off. Solder is sticking onto the mounting plates but not the batteries.
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Make sure it's clean and that you are using resin core solder. I also find a little extra paste helps (depending on your solder size of course). A friend of mine is an acoustical engineer and he taught me a little trick that really helps...keep a small piece of wet rag handy and give the gun tip a quick wipe after pulling the trigger.Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com
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ok - super quick lesson on soldering.
Three things need to come together at the same time - within a second or two....
heat
solder
flux
(also a clean surface - but that's a given - and don't use flux that is made for house-hold copper pipes - or it will eat away at things)
Miss any one of them, and you'll have a bad time.
Also, with a PCB, you can only re-solder to it 2-3 times before it's going to separate it's copper layer from it's fr4 backing. No matter how expensive the product is. So learning how to solder before you need to is a *good thing*....
(ps - don't tell Luke I said this - but soldering is soooo easy! Buy a $25 iron, and practice on wires, your junk VCR, ect...It's not rocket surgery) Also - to support a fellow r3v member....
No affiliation....but GregM3 (Not his exact name - sorry I forget it) dose e30 cluster repair and refurbs for WAY, WAY less then he should charge - so look into that.
Here is his link. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=247878
---------------------------------------------Originally posted by Matt-Bhey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?
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I doubt that you will have any success with a rosin type flux on the ends of the batteries (it is the wrong metal for a rosin flux). An acid flux suitable for work with Stainless Steel will work. I have always had good success with Harris Stay-Clean flux.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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Thanks for the reference George G!
To the OP. Unless your batteries have the solder tabs already on, I would suggest you do forget trying to solder directly to the battery ends. It will take specialized equipment to get the solder to stick and last a long time. Poor solder joints will come off easily in a vibration environment (every e30)
However, with the solder tabs, it will take on solder very easily.Owner - Bavarian Restoration
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You likely aren't getting the battery hot enough. Batteries take a lot of wattage to get them hot enough. Keep in mind, you won't be able to solder lithium batteries. They will explode before getting hot enough. Ask me how I know.
Another option is to buy a 2AA cell battery holder from radio shack and wire that in. Then just tape/velcro it to the outside of the cluster. That way you can replace the batteries as needed.
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Originally posted by NitroRustlerDriver View PostYou likely aren't getting the battery hot enough. Batteries take a lot of wattage to get them hot enough. Keep in mind, you won't be able to solder lithium batteries. They will explode before getting hot enough. Ask me how I know.
Another option is to buy a 2AA cell battery holder from radio shack and wire that in. Then just tape/velcro it to the outside of the cluster. That way you can replace the batteries as needed.
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Originally posted by Gregs///M View PostThanks for the reference George G!
To the OP. Unless your batteries have the solder tabs already on, I would suggest you do forget trying to solder directly to the battery ends. It will take specialized equipment to get the solder to stick and last a long time. Poor solder joints will come off easily in a vibration environment (every e30)
However, with the solder tabs, it will take on solder very easily.
I guess technically, you might be able to silver solder them - but that's a PITA.Originally posted by Matt-Bhey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?
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