Alternative SI battery solution?

[kayweb]

my tach works but is occasionally jumpy, my coolant gauge requires slapping the dash though the nuts are tight, and the econometer/SI lights only come on after at least a 200mi drive. Cells are sitting at respectively 1.6 and 1.7v. Also the Internet told me these would be NiCd but these are MnO2-Li which is a lithium composition I've never heard of

Anyone know if a 5v regulator could approximate the voltage from the SI batteries? Anyone installed an exterior battery holder and just used four D cells or AAs or AAAs?

ALSO what is this LED for?


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[36brua]

from my 'scrapbook'---
REMOTE BATTERY
Heres's a copy of Rick Kjeldsen's instructions on how to replace the Nicad batteries. You might want to just run 3 wires from the instrument cluster to a convenient location to mount the batteries so in 4 years when it happens again you can easily replace the batteries. You need to use 3 wires because the center tap of the 2 batteries is used on the SI board as well as the 2 ends.
How to swap your cluster batteries and relocation http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=200912

[kayweb]

The question is, since I have 3v lithium cells should I replace with 3v lithium? Or is the circuit designed to recharge them? I looked it up and this variety isn't intended to be recharged, and I don't want battery electrolyte leaking everywhere if it does


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[Gregs///M]

Replacing the lithium batteries with NiCd technology is a horrible idea. The LED is for internal diagnostics.

Just replace the batteries and you'll be good for another 10 years at least.

[kayweb]

This was my solution


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[Gregs///M]

Why not just swap those batteries with the dead batteries? I dont see the point of adding the daughter board.

[kayweb]

Positive tab ends are slightly different dimensions and I didn't want to bend the crap out of them.


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