I love my little monster, but lately shes been quite a bitch. She knows my weakness. And she is making my life hell right now. Me and Electricity do not get along and Im having a random issue right now...
Symptoms: Occasional no start issue. Sometimes will fire up right away with a jump, sometimes wont even start with a jump. When it wouldnt start with a jump, I trickle charged the battery and that seemed to solve that problem.
After that I read through a bunch of threads and believe the primary draw coming from the stuff associated with the #21 Fuse stuff.
I streamlined the stuff associated with the #21 Fuse to the following list:
Glovebox light
Flashlight
Ignition Key/Seat Belt warning
Interior Lights
Radio Memory
Trunk Light
Service Interval Indicator
Fuel delivery
Tachometer/Fuel Economy Gauge
Digital Clock
My glovebox has never had a light, flashlight, so Im not sure what the wires look like or if they are even there.
The seatbelt warning light works. Driverside Interior light works. Passengerside has a mind of its own. It kind of works. I think the connections need to be cleaned or something.
My stereo has the whine, from what seems to be the missing ground strap in the engine bay.
Trunk light bulbs are pulled at the moment.
My cluster was rebuilt by Gregs ///M so there better not be a draw from that.
Currently my temp and tach arent working because the #21 fuse is blown.
My car had a simple digital clock (no OBC) that was replaced with an analog clock
When I did the "pull fuses and check the draw" test is when I discovered that the #21 fuse made a significant impact on the draw. A few days later the #21 fuse popped and when I replaced it the new 7.5A fuse popped immediately. At this point ( I was in the middle of a 100 mile drive) I said fuck it, I will live without those items until I have time to fix it.
With the #21 fuse blown I stopped worrying about drain thinking that once I have time to figure it out I can address it, but then one day I was running errands and after a few stops of in town driving the car wouldnt start. I was frustrated and on a mission so I left the car for maybe an hour and when I returned I talked to her nicely and she started. Then wouldnt start again about an hour later.
SO, if you made it this far, thank you. BUT I really need some advice on what to do to figure this out. Ive been disconnecting the battery when I park thinking whatever is trying to draw power, cant. And it works, but is not how I plan on driving the car. A band-aid on top of a band-aid....
Today I decided to bust out the test light and started with the one thing I knew would confirm if there was a draw. With the neg battery cable disconnected I connected the light to the cable and the terminal and the light goes on for a second and dies out... And this is with no #21 fuse.
Symptoms: Occasional no start issue. Sometimes will fire up right away with a jump, sometimes wont even start with a jump. When it wouldnt start with a jump, I trickle charged the battery and that seemed to solve that problem.
After that I read through a bunch of threads and believe the primary draw coming from the stuff associated with the #21 Fuse stuff.
I streamlined the stuff associated with the #21 Fuse to the following list:
Glovebox light
Flashlight
Ignition Key/Seat Belt warning
Interior Lights
Radio Memory
Trunk Light
Service Interval Indicator
Fuel delivery
Tachometer/Fuel Economy Gauge
Digital Clock
My glovebox has never had a light, flashlight, so Im not sure what the wires look like or if they are even there.
The seatbelt warning light works. Driverside Interior light works. Passengerside has a mind of its own. It kind of works. I think the connections need to be cleaned or something.
My stereo has the whine, from what seems to be the missing ground strap in the engine bay.
Trunk light bulbs are pulled at the moment.
My cluster was rebuilt by Gregs ///M so there better not be a draw from that.
Currently my temp and tach arent working because the #21 fuse is blown.
My car had a simple digital clock (no OBC) that was replaced with an analog clock
When I did the "pull fuses and check the draw" test is when I discovered that the #21 fuse made a significant impact on the draw. A few days later the #21 fuse popped and when I replaced it the new 7.5A fuse popped immediately. At this point ( I was in the middle of a 100 mile drive) I said fuck it, I will live without those items until I have time to fix it.
With the #21 fuse blown I stopped worrying about drain thinking that once I have time to figure it out I can address it, but then one day I was running errands and after a few stops of in town driving the car wouldnt start. I was frustrated and on a mission so I left the car for maybe an hour and when I returned I talked to her nicely and she started. Then wouldnt start again about an hour later.
SO, if you made it this far, thank you. BUT I really need some advice on what to do to figure this out. Ive been disconnecting the battery when I park thinking whatever is trying to draw power, cant. And it works, but is not how I plan on driving the car. A band-aid on top of a band-aid....
Today I decided to bust out the test light and started with the one thing I knew would confirm if there was a draw. With the neg battery cable disconnected I connected the light to the cable and the terminal and the light goes on for a second and dies out... And this is with no #21 fuse.
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