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    BavAuto Strut bar Fitment

    I acquired a bavauto strut brace a little while ago and I'm having some issues getting it to fit. The bar is about 3/4" off from fitting. I've tried jacking up the subframe to let the shock towers settle but, that didn't seem to give much, although I did not let it settle for too long. I've read other threads about troubles with strut braces, but none that I've seen have given any real advice besides using a big hammer to persuade it haha. This brace is pretty stiff with the double bars going across, so it really doesn't have too much flex. Not sure if anyone else with a bavauto brace like this has had issues, but any tips or ideas would be appreciated. Thanks




    Originally posted by 2mAn
    The BMW V6 is the best

    #2
    i dont know if its just me, but that looks like its off by a VERY long way
    RHD OBD2 M50b25 turbo build thread:
    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=384800

    Comment


      #3
      IE notes this before buying a bar - something to research I suppose



      1991 325iS turbo

      Comment


        #4
        ^I wrote that, and have proven it first hand on many occasions. Makes for some entertainment at meets. (how different each car in a row really is). Also used to make for great entertainment on the phone.

        "Yeah, your bar doesn't fit. You suck, you should really check the brace before sending it out. I'm sending it back and buying a uuc/sparco/garagfantastic/etc."

        "Dearest gentleman, did you read the complete listing prior to ordering?"

        ....fast forward two weeks later, either a thread complaining about the second bar pops up, or it quietly sells on ebay.
        ------------------------------------------------------------------------


        If the car is just too off to make the bar fit, then you are left with two choices.

        1) Return the bar (politely explaining the problem)
        2) Break out the hack-saw and welder, section the bar, weld, and slap it on.
        ADAMS Autosport

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by ba114 View Post
          i dont know if its just me, but that looks like its off by a VERY long way
          Yeah, its pretty bad, but the pictures definitely makes it look more dramatic. If its properly aligned with the bolt holes it looks way better.


          Originally posted by SkiFree View Post
          ^I wrote that, and have proven it first hand on many occasions. Makes for some entertainment at meets. (how different each car in a row really is). Also used to make for great entertainment on the phone.

          "Yeah, your bar doesn't fit. You suck, you should really check the brace before sending it out. I'm sending it back and buying a uuc/sparco/garagfantastic/etc."

          "Dearest gentleman, did you read the complete listing prior to ordering?"

          ....fast forward two weeks later, either a thread complaining about the second bar pops up, or it quietly sells on ebay.
          ------------------------------------------------------------------------


          If the car is just too off to make the bar fit, then you are left with two choices.

          1) Return the bar (politely explaining the problem)
          2) Break out the hack-saw and welder, section the bar, weld, and slap it on.
          I got the bar second hand, so returning it is not an option. However, I picked it up for pretty cheap so I'm not afraid to chop it up and weld it. I'll probably give that a try if nothing else works.

          Thanks for the responses!

          Originally posted by 2mAn
          The BMW V6 is the best

          Comment


            #6
            Someone should make a bar with a bolt together flange in the middle and a set of shims to space the bar apart to accommodate different widths. Then just make it a bit undersized the factory spec and use shims accordingly. Problem solved.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by AndrewBird View Post
              Someone should make a bar with a bolt together flange in the middle and a set of shims to space the bar apart to accommodate different widths. Then just make it a bit undersized the factory spec and use shims accordingly. Problem solved.
              Absolutely.
              ADAMS Autosport

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by AndrewBird View Post
                Someone should make a bar with a bolt together flange in the middle and a set of shims to space the bar apart to accommodate different widths. Then just make it a bit undersized the factory spec and use shims accordingly. Problem solved.
                Brilliant

                Originally posted by 2mAn
                The BMW V6 is the best

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by AndrewBird View Post
                  Someone should make a bar with a bolt together flange in the middle and a set of shims to space the bar apart to accommodate different widths. Then just make it a bit undersized the factory spec and use shims accordingly. Problem solved.
                  Several companies do.



                  AWD > RWD

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by AndrewBird View Post
                    Someone should make a bar with a bolt together flange in the middle and a set of shims to space the bar apart to accommodate different widths. Then just make it a bit undersized the factory spec and use shims accordingly. Problem solved.
                    The strut bar I'm using (can't remember the maker), has an eccentric bolt on each end of the tower that you can tighten/loosen to make the 3-bolt plates "push" the towers out.
                    Thought it was neat

                    1991 325iS turbo

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I took an RD bar, removed the bolts mounting the bar to the plates, mounted the plates, slid the bar into place on the plates and red riled the holes.
                      I then removed the entire thing and cut away the old holes and shaped the plates like it was. Looks factory and fits my chassis perfect.


                      Here you can see the bolt holes added.




                      And here after trimming.

                      Originally posted by codyep3
                      I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.
                      2001 silver/Blk 325 cabby. SOLD
                      1988 Blk/Blk e30 factory wide body kit car SOLD
                      1992 DS/BLK 325 m-tech II apperance pack cabby SOLD!
                      2002 325xit Sil/blk. SOLD
                      2012 328i xdrive touring. Wht/blk. SOLD
                      2009 135 cabby. monacoblue/blk leather SOLD
                      2007 Z4m coupe. Silver grey/black/ aluminum. 1of50
                      2010 F650gs twin
                      2016 M235i cabby. Mineral grey/Red leather

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by AndrewBird View Post
                        Someone should make a bar with a bolt together flange in the middle and a set of shims to space the bar apart to accommodate different widths. Then just make it a bit undersized the factory spec and use shims accordingly. Problem solved.

                        Problem I see with bolt together strut bars is wouldn't you lose the stiffness your trying to gain by adding the bolts? Would it not allow the bar to flex at those points therefore loosing any rigidity you just tried to gain. Id want a solid bar so that there can be zero flex.


                        1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
                        1991 318i 4dr slick top


                        Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
                        Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
                        Mtech 2 turbo restoration
                        Brilliantrot slick top "build"

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by ThatOneEuroE30 View Post
                          Problem I see with bolt together strut bars is wouldn't you lose the stiffness your trying to gain by adding the bolts? Would it not allow the bar to flex at those points therefore loosing any rigidity you just tried to gain. Id want a solid bar so that there can be zero flex.
                          I built a strut tower bar with a friend who is in residential fabrication a number of years ago. He told me exactly what you just said, adding hardware decreases the rigidity- so we built a solid bar. Unfortunately it doesn't work with the BC camber plates so I had to pull it off.

                          OBDI M62B44/6 swap
                          Transaction feedback
                          - jpod999

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Yes, it'll lose a bit of rigidity. However, what percent is determined by the bar's design. Could be %5 or %15.

                            Don't lose site the fact that even at a reduced rigidity, it is far better than not running anything (because the solid bar won't fit).
                            ADAMS Autosport

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Sampayne - We (BavAuto) have historically had problems with E30 stressbar fitment, due to chassis tweaking. At one point, I took a bar out and test fit it to 6 different E30s that we had on the lot. Of these, only one was a perfect fit. Two could be persuaded to go on. Of the other three, one might have been persuaded if the car was lifted and allowed to hang (as you described), but we didn't bother with it in this test. One was 3/4" off and one was a full inch off.

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