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How to get this damn alternator bolt off??

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    How to get this damn alternator bolt off??

    I was trying to replace my oil filter housing gasket (M42 engine), and in order to do this, you need to take the alternator out. Literally every bolt and nut came off just fine but this little bastard. This nut is the 10mm one on the back side of the alternator that attaches the alternator wires.


    As I turn the nut to loosen it, the connector at the end of the blue wire spins, as well as the stud that the nut is on. I spun the nut/stud/cable around a couple times counter clockwise hoping it would start to work, but stopped because I don't know how many more bends the little connector can take before it will break.

    This car is my daily, so anything that can be done in a day would be great. I'm also considering taking it to a mechanic (don't lynch me!) to say "I need this gasket replaced!" And seeing if they get the job done, or if they go "Alternator nut is fucked. Sorry mate."


    #2
    Can you hold the bottom nut while spinning the top one


    1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
    1991 318i 4dr slick top


    Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
    Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
    Mtech 2 turbo restoration
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      #3
      Originally posted by ThatOneEuroE30 View Post
      Can you hold the bottom nut while spinning the top one
      Unfortunately not. The bottom nut is literally a millimeter wide at most, and is only exposed because the metal connector was breaking the plastic protective piece as it spun around.

      Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
      Last edited by Levy3Poop; 12-01-2017, 11:10 PM.

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        #4
        Impact driver? That might get it.

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          #5
          Originally posted by AndrewBird View Post
          Impact driver? That might get it.
          There's no way I'd be able to fit an impact driver back there. It's enough space to get a rachet, and not much else because it's on the back side of the alternator, right up against the power steering lines and all that good stuff.

          Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

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            #6
            Can you hold that electrical connector with a big needle nose and push, while backing the nut off with a box end? Did you soak the nut with PB blaster?

            oh wait...I re-read this... The stud is spinning? Is it pressed into the alt case guys? Bolt head on the inside?

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              #7
              Originally posted by LateFan View Post
              Can you hold that electrical connector with a big needle nose and push, while backing the nut off with a box end? Did you soak the nut with PB blaster?

              oh wait...I re-read this... The stud is spinning? Is it pressed into the alt case guys? Bolt head on the inside?
              Yup, the stud spins too. How would I be able to get the stud to stop spinning? I did try to hold the electrical connector with pliers, but I'm afraid of breaking it because I've already had to bend it back to position a couple times, and I don't know how close it is to just breaking off.

              Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

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                #8
                You need to grab the stud somehow, but there's hardly any sticking out. You mash the threads with a vise grips and the nut won't come off....

                so.... hmm..

                If the electrical "ring" holds the stud at all, I would sacrifice that wire and redo it with new.

                As they said above, impact might break it loose before it spins, but that doesn't fit..

                Soak it, long arm box end on the nut, grab the stud end TIGHT with a vice grip, break the nut loose, chase the threads later.....??

                Dremel the stud & nut off - but that's not a DD I-need-this-car solution. You have to take the alt case somewhere to press in a new one if that's how it fits. Could you *carefully* dremel just the nut and split it off the shaft, then replace with a new nut...?

                <EDIT> But you'll need to keep the stud from spinning to put the new nut on, so that has to be solved and fixed when you get it apart.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by LateFan View Post
                  You need to grab the stud somehow, but there's hardly any sticking out. You mash the threads with a vise grips and the nut won't come off....

                  so.... hmm..

                  If the electrical "ring" holds the stud at all, I would sacrifice that wire and redo it with new.

                  As they said above, impact might break it loose before it spins, but that doesn't fit..

                  Soak it, long arm box end on the nut, grab the stud end TIGHT with a vice grip, break the nut loose, chase the threads later.....??

                  Dremel the stud & nut off - but that's not a DD I-need-this-car solution. You have to take the alt case somewhere to press in a new one if that's how it fits. Could you *carefully* dremel just the nut and split it off the shaft, then replace with a new nut...?

                  <EDIT> But you'll need to keep the stud from spinning to put the new nut on, so that has to be solved and fixed when you get it apart.
                  What do you mean long arm box end? A long wrench?
                  Also, would a vice grip be able to work with 1/8" and get a solid grip on it without crushing the threads? I just worry about making more trouble for myself

                  Maybe i'm thinking like a dummy here because I've never had a situation like this...but would there be a way to cut the wire, and fix a male and female plug to them so I can just unplug the wire and not have to dick with that nut whenever I need to take it out? Would that goof up the electrical system? Just a thought, and I have no experience with this, so if that's a dumb idea just let me know.

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                    #10
                    How to get this damn alternator bolt off??

                    Originally posted by Levy3Poop View Post
                    Unfortunately not. The bottom nut is literally a millimeter wide at most, and is only exposed because the metal connector was breaking the plastic protective piece as it spun around.

                    Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

                    You can get a set of really cheap thin wrenches I have some at work, super cheap on eBay too. Considering you need that nut off ASAP though waiting on them to come in the mail would suck. It's not the exact set I have but you get the point.






                    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


                    1992 M tech 2 Convertible - S50 Swap
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                    1995 e36 M3 Mugello Red - S50 (SOLD)
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                      #11
                      Yeah, just some leverage - I have some tiny 10mm's that don't give you much oomph, and a long-handled one.

                      I fear the vice grip would crunch the threads, yes.

                      So yeah, if the only thing tying the alt to the engine once disconnected is this wire, by all means put a new separable fitting on it. That spinning stud is a future concern though.

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                        #12
                        Cut the connector off to get it on a bench with more room to work and solder/shrink wrap the connector back on once its fixed. Thats what I’d do if all else fails


                        1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
                        1991 318i 4dr slick top


                        Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
                        Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
                        Mtech 2 turbo restoration
                        Brilliantrot slick top "build"

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Thanks for all the tips, guys. Unfortunately, it might be until Thursday before I can try out anything mentioned here. Maybe I could give it a wack on Wednesday before work if my wife can drive me to work. Thankfully I ordered 2 jugs of oil from Amazon, so I can at least not run out of oil in the mean time. I might also add some oil leak stopper in there too to hopefully minimize lost oil.

                          So once I get the stud/nuts out, what do you all think happened to the stud, and how would you go about fixing what you suspect caused the spinning stud?

                          Or should I just take it to a mechanic, ask them to change the gasket, and pretend that there's nothing fucky going on? lol I'd really rather not pay a mechanic. That's mostly a joke of a suggestion ;)

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                            #14
                            A generic shop is just going to put a remanufactured alternator from NAPA in and charge you $400 plus the labor.

                            There's got to be something to keep it from spinning, whether it's pressed in or whatever. If you get a chance, pull it and see if you can get at the problem, or shop around for a good price and swap it out anyway, it's 30 years old.

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by LateFan View Post
                              A generic shop is just going to put a remanufactured alternator from NAPA in and charge you $400 plus the labor.

                              There's got to be something to keep it from spinning, whether it's pressed in or whatever. If you get a chance, pull it and see if you can get at the problem, or shop around for a good price and swap it out anyway, it's 30 years old.
                              I was actually looking at new alternators online just for fun, and amazon had some for about $180-$200 that fit the 318i. I've pulled alternators before, so I wouldn't take it to a mechanic if the solution ended up being "needs a new alternator".

                              I'll update this thread as I have the chance to try a few things out.

                              Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

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