Fuel pump drainback check valve? (16 14 9 068 988)

[Vincent Brick]

Does anyone know of an equivalent to the drainback check valve retrofit kit 16 14 9 068 988? Looks like it used to be a common thing but now NLA and no one seems to have them anymore. Any universal fuel check valves found to work well?

I am losing fuel pressure quickly upon shut-off causing difficulty starting, I have confirmed it is not the FPR, and I don't think it is a leaky injector. It could also seemingly explain my past issue with what seems like a vapor-lock condition when driving in temps above 110F.

325i BTW, posting in General since this presumably could be an issue on 4cyl cars too. Thanks.

[digger]

I think 11631707770 would work.

[AndrewBird]

I put one of these on my E34:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

With these hose barbs:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used fuel safe thread sealant on the threads to make sure everything was fuel tight. Been several years and has been working great.

I had a long start when cold (like sitting over night) and this fixed the issue completely. I'm running an aftermarket in-tank pump and I don't think it has a check valve built in, hence the addition.

[Vincent Brick]

11631707770 shows up as an evap. check valve, I saw that in my search but I thought those replaced the purge solenoid on early and non-US cars, not sure how they would like fluid moving through them all the time, the seemingly plastic construction worries me. The universal brass one looks legit though, I'll probably just get one of those and a couple barbs.

My issue is more than just a long start after sitting overnight, when it does start is misses real bad and has to be given gas for 20-30 seconds until it clears up, then it runs perfectly fine. Also taking longer to start even when only sitting for a few minutes. We had it on a scanner and did a bunch of tests and real sure it is related to the drainback valve, thought of replacing the whole pump since it is old but money is super tight right now.

Thanks guys.

[AndrewBird]

Could be a bad fuel pressure regulator bleeding pressure off after you turn the car off. Might try replacing that first. It's mounted on the end of the fuel rail.

[Vincent Brick]

Already tested FPR (ran return hose into a bottle and jumped the pump relay), it appears to close right up when it is supposed to.

[roguetoaster]

This has been in my car for about 2 years, and it's not some plastic thing:

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=85394&catid=945

[DirtyDan13]

Atlanta BMW parts stocks the OEM ones on their website. Ordered One the other day.

[cory58]

Atlanta BMW parts stocks the OEM ones on their website. Ordered One the other day.

If you are referring the the part number in the title of this thread, please let us know when you receive it. That part number is also showing as NLA from my fall-back source.

Thanks, Cory

[roguetoaster]

If you are referring the the part number in the title of this thread, please let us know when you receive it. That part number is also showing as NLA from my fall-back source.

Thanks, Cory

If this guy gets that check valve kit I'm just going to start ordering typically NLA stuff from whoever lists it as available.

[digger]

11631707770 shows up as an evap. check valve, I saw that in my search but I thought those replaced the purge solenoid on early and non-US cars, not sure how they would like fluid moving through them all the time, the seemingly plastic construction worries me. The universal brass one looks legit though, I'll probably just get one of those and a couple barbs.

My issue is more than just a long start after sitting overnight, when it does start is misses real bad and has to be given gas for 20-30 seconds until it clears up, then it runs perfectly fine. Also taking longer to start even when only sitting for a few minutes. We had it on a scanner and did a bunch of tests and real sure it is related to the drainback valve, thought of replacing the whole pump since it is old but money is super tight right now.

Thanks guys.

It's a simple check valve

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...uine-bmw-part/

[cory58]

If this guy gets that check valve kit I'm just going to start ordering typically NLA stuff from whoever lists it as available.

Exactly

[e30sh]

I was having a warm long crank issue after sitting ~30 min in my 318iS. I coughed up the $ for a new German pump. Not the cheapest route but it cured my problem.

[Vincent Brick]

I put one of these on my E34:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

With these hose barbs:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used fuel safe thread sealant on the threads to make sure everything was fuel tight. Been several years and has been working great.

I had a long start when cold (like sitting over night) and this fixed the issue completely. I'm running an aftermarket in-tank pump and I don't think it has a check valve built in, hence the addition.

I just found out the hard way that this does not work on an E30, there is physically not enough room between the outlet of the pump to the fuel line for this check valve to fit with hose barbs.

I found places online to order the BMW check valve kit but none of them seemed particularly credible, the places that do seem credible are out of stock. Turner's photo does not match other photos I have seen of that part number. Obviously Turner is reputable, it just seems odd.

I guess now I'm going to order the check valve with integrated hose barbs someone posted above, and hopefully I can get someone to give me a couple bucks for this Airtex one on Ebay eventually.

Thanks for all the info.

[AndrewBird]

I put mine next to the tank just after the pump, not right at the pump. The short distance from it to the pump isn't enough to cause an issue.