strange issue

[nando]

that's the whole idea of a torque spec. if you just use the damn spec you can't overtorque it, can you?

[thereisnoyun]

torque spec

I only use torque specs on critical parts that have alot of stress. It also depends. If you have old parts and you want to reuse, the part may not be able to sustain the original torque spec.

It may be partially crushed, rusted, or oxidized or something of that nature. You will get into a lot of trouble trying to torque the old non critical parts to spec, and you may find yourself breaking things left and right.

Just personal experience, not preaching.

[nando]

I don't put rusty crap back on my car ;)

[thereisnoyun]

:-| I was more refering to oxidized parts. Since alot of parts that oxidize its impossible to tell. I broke one of the bolt holding the manifold on my e38 when I change the oil regulator on my manifold.

[NC325iC]

there is one mount that looks a little squashed, but its a brand new mount, ill give that a try

i torqued it to the specs in my bentley
is this alright to do for an IE uret mount or do they have different recommended values

[PeaveyBassist]

Overtightening a trans mount shouldnt make the car vibrate a lot at certain rpms. I would go back to the machine shop that resurfaced the flywheel and make sure they balanced it afterwards. Since its a rotational thing (rpm dependent) and it doesnt matter if the clutch is in/out, and you didnt touch the engine other than the flywheel, and it didnt do it before putting in the newly resurfaced flywheel, wouldnt that make the most sense that it is the problem?

Will

[thereisnoyun]

If you want to go with torque spec, I would say, bentley would be good. I would also go maybe couple notches lower in torque just to torque it lower than spec first. Say if its 45, I would do 40 first, then if its okay torque it to 43. Once its squished its done and a new one is needed. Urethane are harder I presume, so they are even more easily squished if over tightened.

- peaveybassist I would have to disagree with you. I actually have it happen exactly how it was described. And after loosening the mount the vibration went away mostly, and it went completely away when a new one was installed. I also used a urethane mount. This was on a e39 540i/6 with a light weight flywheel conversion.

[NC325iC]

peavey in the end if i cant get it to stop without taking it back thats what ill do but i want to be sure thats the problem first, checking stuff like this shouldnt take too long and if it saves me the trouble of wrestling the trans back out than it was worth it

could it be a problem that i have one brand new mount and one old mount

also the new mount had some of the metal plate showing on one side could it be defective

[thereisnoyun]

The metal piece that holds the mount?

I would do these test first.

- take off the mount bracket with the two rubber mount
- if you have those metal things that holds the rubber mount, take them off
- put it back on with just the rubber, and dont torque it too hard
- try it out and see if the vibration is lessen dramatically.
- If it is, then you definitely should get new mounts and put them on, if it isnt then you have another problem =P

hopefully its just the mount...

[Mike325]

The metal sticking out of the mount does not sound like it is helping you. The vibration will come into the car easier with the metal touching. Did you tighten the flex disk bolts good?

[NC325iC]

mike the guibo isnt the problem its an engine rotational problem
yun i dont even think your speaking e30 and i already said i have had uret mounts for over a year

and i have come to the conclussion that i need to take the flywheel and get it balanced.
does anyone know if theres a way to balance the flywheel/pressure plate assembly as a whole just incase my PP is out of balance too?

i probly wont start the teardown till monday... SPRING BREAK WOOOO!!!!

[thereisnoyun]

I wasnt speaking e30. I said it was a e39 that had develop the problem. I own three beamers, and work on them myself. Just thought it may be the problem. Sorry it wasnt.

[NC325iC]

yeah me too, oh well

[NC325iC]

update: well i got it all back out again, went much quicker this time around, took it back to the machine shop where it was resurfaced and apparently they dont balance shit and the dude said that it shouldnt have to be balanced cause he took off an equal amount of metal all around (not the brightest guy) and he also said that id have to have the crank out to balance it all together...

so i took it somewhere else to be balance, should be done on thursday, but im goin to the beach for spring break wont be back til sunday so were lookin at a 3week clutch job here, settin new records

[mrsleeve]

Well on every clutch/ fly wheel job I have ever done there is a specific pattern an torque spec for the bolts. If you dont stick to them you will be left along side the road with sheared bolts. I know I had it happen to me an I have rescued a buddy of mine that didnt stick to the directions too.

That being said I have yet to do a clutch on a E30 but I would assume it would be similar.