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Life to a tighter shift, death to the bitch clip.

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    #46
    Engine and trans mounts are going....
    Yeah, prolly is the transmission mounts. Just put in new E12 big six engine mounts last year, so they should be good. I tried to do the tranny mounts at the same time, but decided to wait until I could get a new rear tranny seal that wouldn't leak like a pig all over the new ones.
    -Brandon
    '86 325es S50
    '12 VW GTI Autobahn DSG
    '03 540i M-Sport (sold)
    '08 Jeep SRT-8 (sold)

    For sale:
    S50 TMS chip for Schricks

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      #47
      giving this a go now....lots of fun..... really

      couldnt find a perfectly size bushing, need to add material to the outside of

      the one im using now, considering either rubber hose of some description,

      or maybe just cranking out the boatbuilding glue (that stuff works wonders

      for automotive applications..stiffened up my z3 lever heaps more than

      the one i did on my old car) looking forward to lack of slop when bits

      eventually get back in there
      JUNGL3



      1990 "333i" Sport

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        #48
        well heres my efforts...not as good as jordans one because i couldnt find perfect size so ended up using garden hose as a covering for the bush....but should be good once back in car

        JUNGL3



        1990 "333i" Sport

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          #49
          Originally posted by Jordan View Post
          This morning I felt like fitting my 1.9L Z3 kit to the tranny, and making sure everything was good and tight before getting the tranny in the car.

          After fitting it I decided the amount of slop in the shift knuckle, and the rubber bushing that mounts the shift carrier was unacceptable. So heres what I did.

          I took the shift knuckle sleeve off, and drove out the pin. Took the knuckle off the shaft. Replaced the shaft seal while I was there, because I knew it leaked. The small rubbery cap inside the knuckle was virtually gone, deteriorated from old age, and grease. I removed it and replaced it with a 3mm long section of fuel hose. I then pressed the knuckle on for all I was worth (hella hard to get on all the way with that extra rubber in it) then with some luck I managed to drive the pin back in and replace the sleeve.

          When all was said and done, the knuckles side to side movement was reduced 2/3, and it was nice and stiff.
          which part based on the realoem.com diagram is the shift knuckle sleeve? id just got the bitch clip out and would like to help get rid of as much slop as possible while everything is out.
          1991 318is ---230K - DD
          1991 318i ---- 308K - retired

          Originally posted by RickSloan
          so if you didnt get it like that did you glue fuzzy oil to the entire thing?

          Comment


            #50
            90% of the slop in my shifter went away when I replaced the motor mounts, tranny mounts with polyurethane ones and raplaced all the wored out shifter linkage bushings with OEM ones from Pelican.

            Also, that rubber seal donut can make a difference especially in neutral.
            sigpic
            - 0.05s and 0.1s FTW!!!

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              #51
              you could do this.. or you could buy the UUC derlin shifter carrier bushings. but you will still have slop from the rear mount. I want to make one out of polyurethane; there has to be some amount of give because the tranny moves a bit.

              I still don't get what the big deal with the "bitch clip" is. even on my rusty ass parts car it wasn't hard to get off..
              Build thread

              Bimmerlabs

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                #52
                its bit of a pain, i had to bend mine to get it out it hit the tunnel when i tried to swing it up
                Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

                Originally posted by TimKninja
                Im more afraid of this thread turning into one of those classic R3v moments, where Pizza gets delivered.

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                  #53
                  Can anyone tell me which parts I need to replace on the steel console (shown here) to eliminate most of the slop, either through jordan's method or otherwise? Every single article/post is written for the aluminum console, and I can't tell which parts I need to replace.

                  Do I need to take the transmission down to drive out the pin (#15)?

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                    #54
                    Originally posted by taylor89 View Post
                    Can anyone tell me which parts I need to replace on the steel console (shown here) to eliminate most of the slop, either through jordan's method or otherwise? Every single article/post is written for the aluminum console, and I can't tell which parts I need to replace.

                    Do I need to take the transmission down to drive out the pin (#15)?
                    at the bare minimum you need 7, 1, 16, 14 (might as well do 8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15 while you are there). possible need to also replace

                    #4 from http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...85&hg=25&fg=05

                    and the shift lever itself.
                    Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                    OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

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                      #55
                      anyone know where he bought the parts he used for this, ie the brass bushing, i couldnt find one that fit in tightly into the arm, also the bolts i have all found have threads all the way through, or the ones that arent fully threaded dont have any threads far enough up to lock this inplace.
                      1991 318is ---230K - DD
                      1991 318i ---- 308K - retired

                      Originally posted by RickSloan
                      so if you didnt get it like that did you glue fuzzy oil to the entire thing?

                      Comment


                        #56
                        Originally posted by jrobie79 View Post
                        anyone know where he bought the parts he used for this, ie the brass bushing, i couldnt find one that fit in tightly into the arm, also the bolts i have all found have threads all the way through, or the ones that arent fully threaded dont have any threads far enough up to lock this inplace.
                        Blast from the past.
                        Good info, but what size did he use?

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                          #57
                          Well, he used a 19mm bolt through it, so find a bushing with a 19mm ID. The outer will probably end up being the same as they are usually made in standard sizes. 19mm is about 3/4" if you can't find a metric bushing. www.mcmaster.com should have either.

                          Comment


                            #58
                            I know, I know, old thread, but how many have replicated the replacement of the felt insert with a fuel hose piece? I think that and the rear mount are now the source of most of my slop (and really it's still not bad I just want it perfect.)
                            '89 335is +turbo

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