M30 afm help

[Avus_325is]

Got everything all swapped into the new afm and started up the car. I adjusted it to get the idle right, but now it pretty much stops reving at around 2500. If I stay on the gas it seams to catch up, but whatever adjustment I make, nothing is working. The car is also flashing me a check engine light. Did I fuck up the board or something when I switched it over?

[rwh11385]

Um, word. I just plugged in my M30 AFM, no electronics swap.

I started up fine, and idled okay, but well I opened the throttle it stumbled on itself.
Then I went to do an "italian tune-up" and it adjusted alright for WOT (and SOUNDED BADASS), but any partial throttle did nothing and just fell on its face. Also wanted to stall after every stop sign, only going at WOT.

I need to know exactly how Bryson made his work.
Did he have a JC chip? Should I take that out momentarily? And put it in later?

Ugh. btw, stock AFM is back in for now.

[Bryson]

I had a stock chip. I moved the teeth on the m30 board over two teeth, I also used m20 AFM electronics. Disconnect your computer for 30-60 seconds then reconnect it and see how it does, after driving 7 miles the ECU should have adapted itself, if not, you need to swap the boards, or screw with the AFM

It works at WOT because the ECU does not take a reading from the AFM at all at WOT, it goes by internal settings

[nando]

hmm what about the people who got it working without swapping? maybe it's an ECU issue. maybe adjusting the spring tension will help.

[rwh11385]

I'll deal with it this weekend. Have to deal with commencement, work, etc. until then.

But i think I can keep the M30 electronics, hopefully, and with probably pop the stock in there to see if it helps. The advanced timing, etc. of JC probably doesn't help with adjusting it to work, but I dunno.

I'll do the 19# injectors too, because my clicking stock ones are annoying!

[mspiegle]

If your car is stumbling, its because the M30 puts out a diff voltage and is telling your ECU to do something to the fuel that is way out-of-character for the situation. I think it might be TOO RICH, but not 100% sure. Don't run your car like that, its dumb. Adjust the spring tension using a multimeter.

[Avus_325is]

Yea i'm gonna check with a multimeter tmw. I just have to tap the black wire coming out of the O2 sensor right? Stoich would read about .4 or so I think.

[rs4pro3]

Most likely You'll need to swap the electronics When I tossed my m30 AFM it did that. Supposedly only the newer E34 and E32 M30 AFM's will swap right in but the older ones require the circuit board to be swapped.

[Avus_325is]

I was just thinking, does the little vane that sticks down into the afm as well as the spring and toothed wheel need to be changed as well? They are the only things I didn't swap over.

[rs4pro3]

They shouldn't just the electronics

[rwh11385]

Most likely You'll need to swap the electronics When I tossed my m30 AFM it did that. Supposedly only the newer E34 and E32 M30 AFM's will swap right in but the older ones require the circuit board to be swapped.

Damn.

I wish I knew that. But Nando's was just so purdy.

[skat 325is]

I just did this last friday with a friend to his car, it was a 86 535i afm, we swapped boards, he then adjusted the wheel inside the afm to make it idle better and that was pretty much it. He took it to the dyno yesterday said he did some more adjusting there, gains were +2hp & +10tq

[nando]

Damn.

I wish I knew that. But Nando's was just so purdy.

well, before you try ripping apart your stock one you could try adjusting the big6. as far as swapping the boards, it shouldn't be too hard. the screws are kindof a pita to remove, especially if you strip them out, but that's the only hard part.

[nateb]

yea I was able to get mine working in my eta by replacing the board and spring then adjusting it for a few days.

[rwh11385]

Damn.

I wish I knew that. But Nando's was just so purdy.

well, before you try ripping apart your stock one you could try adjusting the big6. as far as swapping the boards, it shouldn't be too hard. the screws are kindof a pita to remove, especially if you strip them out, but that's the only hard part.

yeah, of course I'll probably give that a try. Could save me a AFM I could sell, and save some work.

First, graduate, then party, then make the stock airbox fit the bigger AFM.
That cone is just too big, I dunno how I could fit it in there with cruise, let alone a heatshield.