Best way to convert to r134a?

[Bhadole]

Cam,
Any update on the write-up? Summer in OR is just around the corner.

Ken

there's no summer in OR...

[bimmerphile]

Cam,
Any update on the write-up? Summer in OR is just around the corner.

Ken

there's no summer in OR...

Maybe not, but there sure as hell is one in Idaho.

[Bimmerfanatik]

bring it to a mechanic so they can flush it and shit, that's what I did... the conversion and charge was like $70... well worth it to me

Dan, where did you go to get this done? If it's 70 to get it converted and filled....I'm just gonna do that.

[ultima]

Yeah definitely a write up is needed for the conversion. How much does it cost to charge an r134a system?

[EverWiser]

You should have as much of the old lubricant (mineral oil for R12) flushed out as possible. Also, you should change the drier at the very least and some recommend changing the expansion valve as well. After that, be sure you pull a good vacuum on the system and precharge with nitrogen to make sure the system holds pressure. If all of that checks out, fill with R134a and enjoy the cold air.

[pig4bill]

There are a few articles on the net on how to do it. You'll need hoses, maybe a drier, a compressor if you have an older one, like maybe 88 or older. It'll cost a good thousand or more.

[Dominick]

what about this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7972579497&category=33544

would i just need this, i know you have to change the seals to convert. and a new drier?

lets keep this thread alive, b/c fl summer is here and kicking my ass, i can take no A/C, but going on daytime dates isnt working to well when me and the girl are sweating our asses off.

[parkerbink]

Any update on this? I obviously need to recharge my ac (I just realized when looking at the pictures of my naked front end) Do I need to replace mechanical components to use 134 or can they just refill it with 134?

[nkell09]

re:

Good site to research ac info is on www.autoacforum.com

I followed the advice of others on the forums and replaced the drier/exp. valve/ compressor on my jetta. Then pulled a vacuum, bought a set of manifold guages and charged the system(works great)...

A bit of opinions on Freeze12 from the guys over there. Some searching will bring up much more information on it.

http://www.autoacforum.com/messageview.cfm?catid=2&threadid=10488&FTVAR_MSGDBTABLE=

[parkerbink]

Gracias!

[parkerbink]

Here is the informative response I got from the AC site. My new question is what is the volume of the receiver drier that I need to replace as the dealer does not have it.

No doubt BMW would have you believe it's a BMW part if only because, with their part, the brackets and connecting pipes should all line up. In other regards, as I see it, receiver-driers are generic components. Try to get one of a similar size so that the receiver volume is not too different. A larger volume might not hurt, but you may need to increase the refrigerant charge weight a bit, for optimum fill. Likewise, a greater quantity of dessicant could produce greater drying capacity.

[rede30]

I just bought the kit from pepboys for like $35 had my friend flush out the system then i put the r134 fittings on and charged it up. it has worked for over a year. slow driving doesnt work but crusing it works great. I thought i heard you could get r12 cheap cheap in mexico, anyone know?

Dustin

[parkerbink]

Yes r12 is here and is cheap. Conventional wisdom is to change the reciever/dryer

[A_325i]

yea im moving to florida in november so im gonna need my ac fixed...how much would the dealer charge? my ac hasnt worked since i got the car i have no idea if theres any leaks or if anything is busted or if it just needs to be recharged but it dont work....and i need it fixed within the next month or two

[bimmer8604]

You will need new rubber hoses, the ones that go from like the compressor to the condensor, the condenser to the reciever dryer, new reciever drier, lines from reciever dryer to the evaporator(fire wall) and then from the evaporator(firewall) to the compressor, only the rubber lines tho. Changing the O Rings is easy, just disconnect the stuff. And yes, you will have to change your oil, but a back flush isnt that hard. You should beable to get most of the parts your self, and unless your compressor is leaky you shouldnt have to touch the compressor. Just look for dirt and build up around the clutch, and if its all gumked up, then replace the shaft seal(easy).

Kinda a long post, but hopueflly it helps. If anything, DO NOT get the little cans at autozone/pepboys. They will def. contaminate your system, and most shops will not work on a car unless its eithe 100% r12 or 100% r134a.

Kyle