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Best way to convert to r134a?

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    #31
    I know this isn't gonna help you guys but apparently its all shit about CFC damaging the ozone. They are 4 times heavier than air for christ sake, how do they get 40km up in the atmosphere.

    Also how do all those CFC end up over antarctica?

    Theres way may to it but thats the main reasons it a bit of a dodgy theory.

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      #32
      Originally posted by Borat
      I know this isn't gonna help you guys but apparently its all shit about CFC damaging the ozone. They are 4 times heavier than air for christ sake, how do they get 40km up in the atmosphere.

      Also how do all those CFC end up over antarctica?

      Theres way may to it but thats the main reasons it a bit of a dodgy theory.
      Its not that CFC is heavier, the refrigerant yes, thats heavier, but the CFCs are not. And wind currents blow that shit everywhere. I've learned that 1 cfc molecule will depleate something like 1mil oxygen molecules or somethin like that.

      Do not vent the freon, i will call the EPA on ur ass!

      Kyle
      1988 M3, 97 840, 99 XJ
      DILLIGAF

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        #33
        I find it ironic that we can release duster cans containing either r134a, or r152a into the atmosphere, but we cannot legally vent car systems. I'm not sure what would happen contribute more, air duster cans, or a/c systems.

        The following discussion is in regard to the use of duster cans as refrigerant over on autoacforums.



        Technically you can use duster cans if ingredients state that they contain "Tetrafluorethane CAS #811-97-2" (r134). The majority cans I found in local stores contain use the "Difluoroethane CAS #75-37-6" (r152); Granted you can run the r152 when charged at proper amounts, but the refrigerant is flammable and has not been approved for use in systems. Supposedly there is research being done to use r152. But for now it is not legal.

        The forum post provides quite a bit of knowledge and is very informative. Also, a couple of members have posted in regards to using side can taps for extracting the refrigerant from duster cans, and even their own conversions from r134 to r152.

        enjoy...

        f.y.i.- I charged mine with pure r134. Sure, I'm always open for something to try new, like buying duster cans wholesale cheaper than the r134, but I simply don't have the time to experiment with it. As I recall, the refrigerant in my system somehow managed to escape, maybe it was a leak or something, lol...
        Last edited by nkell09; 10-06-2005, 06:07 AM.

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          #34
          I've beeen struggling with AC probs too, and recently i replaced my leaky evaporator, expansion valve and reciever-dryer. And after having the system evacuated and flushed, i decided to refill with R12 b/c i found a place here that only charged $45/lb. The lines were freezing cold, only 1 degreee C. It was great. But it turns out the new dryer was defective and it all leaked out that very night! I replaced the fitting that i thought was leaking, then it turned out not to be that one, but the one right next to it! so i lost another 2 lbs or so. But now i think i fanally have it fixed and i will recharge it soon. BTW, you can buy R12 very easily on Ebay if you get your EPA section 609 certification. IMHO, if you are going to go through the trouble of replacing the dryer and/or expansion valve and/or other parts, just fill it with R134a. It's cheaper, and if it leaks you wont be loosing hundreds of dollars and it is much better for the environment. I wish i had just done that, it would have been the better path to take. All the parts are easy to replace, as are the o-rings and fittings. Just get it fully evacuated and leak-checked before you put in R134a, because the oils used in R12 and R134a are very different and can become caustic if mixed, causing leaks at the o-rings. I hope my experience can help someone else!

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