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Removing the rear axels

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    Removing the rear axels

    Well, I have the diff out already so all I have to do is get the big bolt on the hub off, does anybody know what size socket I will need for it? Seems like around 25-26mm. Also looks like it will be a bitch and a half to get off... what should I expect?

    RISING EDGE

    Let's drive fast and have fun.

    #2
    you will have a difficult time without an impact gun.... not sure on the size tho

    http://www.westwerksauto.com

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      #3
      The rear axle nut takes a 30mm socket. Driving the axles out of the hub is hard enough, but getting them back in later is a mo-fo. They're a tight fit in the splined hub.
      Randy Walters

      2021 Mazda 3 Sedan Premium AWD
      1988 325is (w/89 bumpers, recently sold)
      1989 325is (Broadsided long ago RIP)
      1996 328is (Sold to Matt J)
      2003 530i Sport (Spare car now)
      2005 X3 (little woman's car)
      Driving Instructor BMW CCA L.A. & S.D. Chapters
      Multiple L.A. & S.D. Region SCCA Autocross Championships

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        #4
        Should have left the diff in that way you could have locked the axles in place to a degree.
        https://www.facebook.com/BentOverRacing

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          #5
          What threw me off the first time was the lock plates on the outside. Mine were pretty corroded, so it just looked like they were part of the hub. Taking those out makes it much easier. ;) Get some new lock plates to put in from the dealer.
          -Brandon
          '86 325es S50
          '12 VW GTI Autobahn DSG
          '03 540i M-Sport (sold)
          '08 Jeep SRT-8 (sold)

          For sale:
          S50 TMS chip for Schricks

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            #6
            This is on the parts car, they don't have to be reinstalled. What's the lock plate?

            RISING EDGE

            Let's drive fast and have fun.

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              #7
              it holds the 30mm nut in place. you can pry it out with a flat screwdriver. to break the nuts free, it's easiest to have the car on the ground. you'll probably need a good sized breaker bar with a couple feet of steel pipe to pop them loose, they're torqued to something like 200ft-lbs
              Build thread

              Bimmerlabs

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                #8
                144 :)

                RISING EDGE

                Let's drive fast and have fun.

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                  #9
                  To hold the shaft from spining, take a wheel lug and slip it threw a link in a piece of chain, thread the lug into the hub, now take the other end of the chain and attach it threw the trailing arm mounts, or use a bolt and hook it to the brake caliper mounting points. Now the shaft will stay put when you break the bolt free. I had to use my impact wrench to get them free. But I'm a lightweight guy so I don't have much leverage as it is.
                  85 325e 2.7 ITB'd stroker

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                    #10
                    ah.. the front ones on the ix are 220. breaking those loose was not fun!
                    Build thread

                    Bimmerlabs

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by rs4pro3
                      To hold the shaft from spining, take a wheel lug and slip it threw a link in a piece of chain, thread the lug into the hub, now take the other end of the chain and attach it threw the trailing arm mounts, or use a bolt and hook it to the brake caliper mounting points. Now the shaft will stay put when you break the bolt free. I had to use my impact wrench to get them free. But I'm a lightweight guy so I don't have much leverage as it is.
                      ely that's a really great idea. damn. now, how to do that on a set of rear trailng arms that are off the car?
                      sigpic
                      king of bad decisions.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by jflower
                        Originally posted by rs4pro3
                        To hold the shaft from spining, take a wheel lug and slip it threw a link in a piece of chain, thread the lug into the hub, now take the other end of the chain and attach it threw the trailing arm mounts, or use a bolt and hook it to the brake caliper mounting points. Now the shaft will stay put when you break the bolt free. I had to use my impact wrench to get them free. But I'm a lightweight guy so I don't have much leverage as it is.
                        ely that's a really great idea. damn. now, how to do that on a set of rear trailng arms that are off the car?
                        I can't remember if it stays clear of the hub or not, but when I'm putting on my spacers (use separate set o low profile bolts), I put on 2 lugs and stick the bar from my floor jack in there against the ground.
                        -Brandon
                        '86 325es S50
                        '12 VW GTI Autobahn DSG
                        '03 540i M-Sport (sold)
                        '08 Jeep SRT-8 (sold)

                        For sale:
                        S50 TMS chip for Schricks

                        Comment


                          #13
                          It works fine with the arms out of the car, I did that one three different trailing arms I had laying in the garage.
                          85 325e 2.7 ITB'd stroker

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