Bought a 318, need advice!!!!!

[rs4pro3]

I'd change the diff fluid. I did the Tranny fluid in December when I changed the tranny. I should of done the diff fluid before I sold it but didn't have time I had 2 quarts left after doing my 88. The fluid change is pretty easy to do.

[bimmerboy12]

car

I drained the diff fluid and put in ML-5 approved valvoline fully synthetic 75w90 gear oil, along with about 2-3 ounces of Trans-X posi-lube. It seems to be slowly going away, the problem was still there right after the change but after about 15 miles of driving, I can't get it to grind.
Thanks all for your help-

[BavarianBimmer]

advise: you should never buy an m10 car!! unless it is the powerful varient, the s14.

I have an 84 318i and I drove with the 90 hp four cylinder for about 6 months and have now swapped to the m50.

The LSD is pretty good on mine as well, got me messed up twice in the rain.

90hp ?????? I tought it was 105 hp unless it's an K jet version wich had 101 hp or am I wrong ?

I've an M10 w/o an i on the trunk :twisted: it's a real torquemeister

[RedBaron86325]

90hp ?????? I tought it was 105 hp unless it's an K jet version wich had 101 hp or am I wrong ?

I've an M10 w/o an i on the trunk :twisted: it's a real torquemeister

Only using the basic hp/tq numbers of any car are irrelevant. You have to associate those with aerodynamics, power:weight, gearing, driver capability in a given situation, traction, suspension, reliability....etc...

[bimmerboy12]

bump

[e9nine]

Only using the basic hp/tq numbers of any car are irrelevant. You have to associate those with aerodynamics, power:weight, gearing, driver capability in a given situation, traction, suspension, reliability....etc...

hehe thats not true. aerodynamics, power:weight, gearing, and driver capability have absolutely nothing to do with a car's horsepower. The cars horsepower is measured with out it moving, which eliminates all the factors you just named. Critical factors are the horsepower loss from the power delivered through the drivetrain since the HP measured is from the crank, and age, and tolerance/adherence from specifications from the factory for all the engine components (why one brand new car would be quicker than another).

So many different variable affect power at any instance, regardless of whether the car is moving or not. If the [edit]motor[/edit] is not moving, how will you measure its power? :idea:

[bimmerboy12]

delete

[rwh11385]

Brian, don't get into it with Arick, Eric, however e9nine spells his name (Greg always typed Arick). anyway, he's a cool guy and just having fun.

btw, check out http://www.r3vlimited.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=10326
I dunno about the back bumper, but the front might work for you. I'm considering it.

[e9nine]

wildercard

[e9nine]

wildcard

[hotghias]

[quote="e9nine"]

Only using the basic hp/tq numbers of any car are irrelevant. You have to associate those with aerodynamics, power:weight, gearing, driver capability in a given situation, traction, suspension, reliability....etc...

Given 2 identical cars, one with 200lbs of sand in the trunk which one will be faster? :idea:

Given a new driver versus and experienced driver, which car will be faster around a turn? :idea:

Given a car with a short geared diff, vs long geared... whihc one will be faster or have a higher top speed? :idea:

given 2 identical cars, one carrying 200 lbs of lead, and the other with 200 lbs of feathers...

sorry, couldnt resist. hope you get your problem sorted out, man.

and i'd like to add that the mod's kick ass. "bowl full of dicks" hahaha.

[george graves]

advise: you should never buy an m10 car!!

not mine....

I do think the the m10 wears out faster maby - it seems like you are always on the gas...

[kylebes1]

that is the only reason i did not like mine, I never had an extra potential, took 100% throttle to go up many hills, ect. I said 90 hp because I thought with WELL over 300k miles it had lost alittle from factory