With the work done on the car it is possible that you disturbed some hose connected to the intake and now have an intake leak. That could explain why the engine runs a bit better with the temp sensor disconnected as that would cause the DME to think that the engine is cold and result in a richer mixture.
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The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL -
Not sure if this is an issue w/M20's, but check to make sure you've bled all the air out of the cooling system. It could be your temp sensor isn't getting an accurate reading.Comment
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Hey, do me a favor, and run a test lead from the positive on the battery to the positive on the coil. The battery is right next to the coil correct?
Start the car, connect the test lead, and see if it runs better.
Note: When you turn the key off with the test lead still connected the car will not turn off until you unhook it. LMK what happens. Thanks.I got a fender roller now! LMK if you need me to roll your fenders or want to rent the tool from me locally.
Paypal: vdang5@gmail.com
Delta Auto Care
2875-C Towerview Road
Herndon, VA
703.435.1375
My Feedback Thread: Evil_TwinComment
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It will diagnose if 1 of your connectors are bad. No, both leads on the coil are NOT positive.
I've had a problem like this before in a vert. There is 1 connector that goes from the coil down where the kick panel is, and it got lose causing the car to have a stumbling problem.I got a fender roller now! LMK if you need me to roll your fenders or want to rent the tool from me locally.
Paypal: vdang5@gmail.com
Delta Auto Care
2875-C Towerview Road
Herndon, VA
703.435.1375
My Feedback Thread: Evil_TwinComment
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Let's start with the simple, common causes:
did you disconnect the battery to perform all the servicing?
how long have you driven the car for since the servicing?
did you unplug the AFM for any reason? If so, did you plug it back in?Comment
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Well tried the battery to positive lead on coil method and no results. It still stumbled. I also re-bled the coolant system. No air. I soaked the entire manifold area with starting fluid, and no change in idle. This is really starting to piss me off. I went to a parade of homes tonight, and I was parking and the cop directing parking said, "sounds like your running outta gas there buddy". I gave an embarressed look of disgust and sheepishly drove to my spot, vowing to have the problem fixed by the weeks end.Comment
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No, i didn't disconnect the battery for servicing since I wasn't dealing with any live leads.
I have driven the car back and forth to work 14 miles round trip every day since performing the service about three weeks ago. It runs perfectly fine and normal with the slightest increase in gas.
AFM is plugged in and I have unplugged/plugged nearly every connection under the hood looking for a loose connection... no luck.Comment
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Bump... I need some ideas for when I work on it this weekend!Comment
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A side note, it seems like the wavering idle is rhythmic sometimes, i was idling in drive, and it was lurching in rhythm.
It does not do it when the engine is ice cold, but it only has to warm up for a minute before it will start acting up.Comment
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No ideas guys? I dont want to take it in and get raped. Is there a voltage I can check at the injectors?Comment
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There are monitors from the ecu that checks everything and tells the car how much fuel to give it (you probaly already know this) and because the coolant sensor places such a big role in this and you changed yours, this would be where i would look. If i were you id try to disconect the battery, and then reconect and go through the driving process of resetting all the monitors (not sure if there is one on e30s). This will let the computer learn the the new coolant sensor.
Just throwing my idea out there to try and help.
also make sure the plugs are gapped right.
let us know!!Comment
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u get it?Comment
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my car does a similar thing. about to change temp sensor.Comment
R.I.P 07/01/09 - 04/23/10 :(
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