Clutch squish; Removing air

[xLibelle]

I replaced my slave cylinder because of a hole in the seal, not sure how that happened.
Bled the system and clutch works great. But there's still some air (it seems) thats trapped in the top of the master cylinder. I've done some rapid clutch pumps two days, five minutes each day, which has improved the problem but theres still about 1-2 inches of clutch travel at the top before it activates the clutch.

Is this normal? Is it air? How do you FULLY bleed the system?

[xLibelle]

does anyone at least have a description of their own clutch pedal feel?

[lordofthewaters]

What i do to bleed, is pump fully once, then push till just past initial resistance say 20 times, then repeat several times. All with the reservoir cap off. Usually works.

[netcsk]

The best way I have found to get it bled is to remove the cap on the reservoir, remove the slave cylinder from the transmission; then push and release the rod on the slave cylinder with your hand a few times slowly. This has always worked for me.

You should only have a maximum of an inch or two that doesn't have resistance.

[xLibelle]

You should only have a maximum of an inch or two that doesn't have resistance.

Is everyone finding this to be the same and true?

[DRTSRFR]

I just finished replacing my clutch, master, and slave and have the same issue.

The clutch works fine, but the pedal doesnt come back to the safety switch. It's about an inch lower than it was previously. I adjusted the pedal cam with little success.

[xLibelle]

the issue you speak about is not what my question is regarding.
Your clutch not coming all the way out could be the need to set the return spring to the right place. I dont know what the pedal cam is.
If there is resistance when you pull the clutch pedal to the switch, there may be other problems you have. You would want to open a different thread regarding that.

[DRTSRFR]

Sorry, my bad:???:

[netcsk]

I just finished replacing my clutch, master, and slave and have the same issue.

The clutch works fine, but the pedal doesnt come back to the safety switch. It's about an inch lower than it was previously. I adjusted the pedal cam with little success.

You need to look at the spring that attaches to your clutch pedal arm. It likely is not in the "notch" that it is supposed to ride in, so the pedal isn't being helped by this spring.

[supraru]

I just bled my clutch last night after replacing the master. Had a hard time bleeding to start with using conventional method, then wound up opening the bleeder fully, filling the reservoir, and pumping slowly on the pedal. I had about three large bubbles of air per pump come out of the reservoir, with cap off. After a minute of that I closed the bleeder, did the same thing for the next three minutes and all of my pedal came right back, only cracked the bleeder one more time to make sure it was all fluid coming out, which it was.

Hope something in there might help you. my pedal has about 1 inch of travel before disengaging, maybe a little more, like others above suggested.

[DRTSRFR]

You need to look at the spring that attaches to your clutch pedal arm. It likely is not in the "notch" that it is supposed to ride in, so the pedal isn't being helped by this spring.

You were absolutely correct!

Thanks.

[nando]

pressure bleeder.. replaced my MC on friday, bled all the brakes + clutch in about 15 minutes.

[xLibelle]

DRTSRFR, if you read my statement, youd have had it fixed a lot sooner. Sorry if it was vague.

Your clutch not coming all the way out could be the need to set the return spring to the right place.

Nando, it appears i need to get one of those... I have found myself doing more brake jobs and clutch jobs than i anticipated.

I have also found that it helps to remove all the air when servicing the clutch with the nose of the car DOWN. If its up, there will be air trapped in the high point of the slave.

[accident]

pressure bleed ftw