Crank Gear Pin broke off - Update: finishing up.

[Westija]

Hi all,
325i 1989

I am in the process of replacing my Front Crankshaft, Intermediary Shaft and Camshaft Seals because I have an oil leakage in the front of the engine. I am also replacing my Timing Belt while I am in there.
I have the Crank Locking Tool (https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...=0&SVSVSI=BE30) and as I tried to loosen the Crank Bolt, the Crank Gear Pin broke off. This is where the Locking Tool "grabs" the Gear , so it does not rotate while loosening the Crank Bolt.

How do I get that Crank Gear out now?

[Westija]

Can I just use the same gear bolts to hold the Locking Tool in place?

[roguetoaster]

If you can, use other bolts as the threads can get damaged using the tool. If you don't have that option just be as careful as you can. The lack of a pin isn't a big deal as long as you pay attention during reassembly.

If you just need to remove the bolt you can let the starter do the removal work by positioning the breaker bar handle against the chassis rail, preferably with a wood block in between. Do be aware that there is always a chance of starter/flywheel breakage with this method.

[Vincenze]

You must use 3 bolts to securely connect the tool to the crank sprocket. Did you use just 1 pin?

[Westija]

I am an idiot, just used the pin. I'll try again and use the bolts.
Thanks guys.

[Vincenze]

I am an idiot, just used the pin. I'll try again and use the bolts.
Thanks guys.

It's better to buy new bolts for the tool. Do not use the original ones. You may destroy the threads.

[Vincenze]

I made a mistake on my car a few years ago and tore off the threads. I had to turn to specialists to restore the thread and eliminate the consequences of my curvature. So, I myself am careful and advise others to be careful.

You can still buy the crank sprocket, but it's about $100.
Sometimes, you can buy a whole M20 for $100, though.

[Westija]

Well, this has been fun. I got over the broken pin and after properly bolting the tool this time, I removed the bolt. Very scary given the brute force used.

Then I found that the Crank Seal Housing had some pretty good scratches. Not sure if that was causing it to leak, but for $65 I decided to order a new one and reduce the risk of continue to have leaks after the repair.

I installed the new seals to the replacement housing and now I have been trying for the last 2-3 hours install this with no success. As I slide it in place , sometimes the Oil Pump Seal gets twisted, sometimes its "seal spring" gets out of place and when it goes in correctly, the Crank Seal twists. It is always one or the other. I might have tried it 30 times. The fact that I have Gasket Maker to seal between the Housing and the Oil Pan, makes removing and reinstalling this every time a big mess.
I am using my fingers to locate the seals before I push the housing in, but there is always something that twists. I am using WD40 Silicone Oil to make the seals slide better, but I am afraid they are becoming a bit too soft after so many tries. Should I try buying new seals and use some other sort of lubricant? Is there any trick to install this thing back in place?

This is proving to be a pretty frustrating repair for just an oil leak.
At least I am getting my T Belt done in the process.

Picture of the seal surface scratched in the old housing.

[Vincenze]

That scratch didn't matter much. You could use a gasket sealer.

It's difficult to put both seals. Use a plastic thing like a small plastic knife to move it around the sealing surface and push the sticking parts inside.

[uturn]

Pack the back of the seals with "Transjel Red" so that the seal spring doesn't pop out when you install it.

[Westija]

Thanks for the help everyone. When I tried again today, I used Diff Oil to lubricate the Seals and the Shafts ends and drove the Crank Seal a bit further into the cover. It incredibly went on in the first try without any problems. I guess when you are frustrated, like I was, just step away from it. Glad I did not need to use the car.

A new question , now related to installing the Crankshaft Hub/Sprocket. It is really tight to install manually and mine is not going in much. It goes in just a bit and then it stops. Maybe I have the woodruff key too high? Am I supposed to use some tool to put it back in or hit it to have it installed?

[Vincenze]

A new question , now related to installing the Crankshaft Hub/Sprocket. It is really tight to install manually and mine is not going in much. It goes in just a bit and then it stops. Maybe I have the woodruff key too high? Am I supposed to use some tool to put it back in or hit it to have it installed?

I had to buy a long bolt with the same thread as the crankshaft bolt to pull the sprocket in.

https://www.belmetric.com/advanced_s...yword=BH18X1.5

A bought the BH18X1.5X80FBLK
but it was hardly long enough.

I should've bought the 100mm or 110mm bolt plus spacers.

[Westija]

Well, I had the Sprocket backwards. I reinstalled it and it is fine now.
I am finishing up the rest of the stuff in the next couple of days. The A/C Compressor Adjusting Bracket teeth were pretty bad and so was the Adjusting Nut, so had to buy those. The A/C Belt design is not the best. Many stories about people not able to reinstall it. I got the 825mm long one and yet in my first attempt, it was super tight. Will try again later. The one I removed was a bit shorter 810 mm, so I cannot imagine how it was installed.
Since I had to detach the Transmission Cooler lines to remove the Radiator, I have replaced Transmission Oil and Filter. And needed to buy their Seals.
I am also changing Engine Oil and Filter and Diff Oil as part of the job.
I think I spent three times more than I thought, just to clean all the gunk and grease accumulated over the years

Should be ready soon. Finally.