Questions about the valve cover hardware

[dice2012]

I was trying to torque down the hex nuts on my valve cover, but I couldn't seem to torque down the nuts under the intake manifold. So after reading many forum posts and coming up with more questions than answers, I just wanted to ask.
Do I even torque down the nuts? It seems like a lot of people advise against using a torque wrench, instead opting to tighten by hand and not overtighten. What is the correct way to do this? If I should be using a torque wrench, what specs do I set it to? It seems like the guides say 11 ft lbs but others say that is too much. In trying to tighten the nuts back down with a wrench, I deformed the outside of a nut, so that needs to be replaced. Can I go to an AutoZone and buy any M6 X 1 hex nut? Is there a certain type I should buy? Lastly, what is the correct way to tighten down the nuts under the intake manifold? Really not trying to mess anything up.

[Vincenze]

You need universal joint socket adapters to reach into tight places.

If you don't tighten it correctly, oil will leak through the seal. You may even need to use a high-temperature sealer.

[dice2012]

I'll have to get one of those. Thanks. Any info on the correct torquing specs and/or the hex nuts?

[Vincenze]

The hex nuts appear to be generic.
Yes, Bentley says 11 lb/ft.
But you must use the same torque sequence as for the engine head: start from the center.

[dice2012]

Thank you! I'll need to get a copy of the bentley soon along with those joint socket adaptors.

[tomstin]

I think you will find a ratchet with a flex head or, what I uses, a short handle ratchet will work better than the flex joints. I use the short handle (stubby) ratchet the most as it limits the torque you can put on the smaller fasteners. As examples:

Stubby: http://corporate.cornwelltools.com/w...Chrome%29.html

Flex head: http://corporate.cornwelltools.com/w...d-Ratchet.html