I just now noticed the Crevier 'license plate' on your car. Are you in Southern California?
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I Timothy 2:1-2 -
The car is from SoCal. Been there since 89 until I brought it to Atlanta.Comment
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Looking great! Keep up the great work!
Just some advice with your radio wiring or any wiring in future. When you cut the wires, try to stagger the cuts. For example, cut one wire 2 inches long and cut the next wire at 3 inches long. This will make the bundle of connectors seem smaller/thinner.
Good luck with the project!Comment
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Yeh that's good advice. I had a similar thought while wrapping the harness for the radio. Fortunately the heat shrunk crimp connectors aren't that big.
Made some progress today. The evap is in what I hope will be its final resting place and installed the new under dash AC lines.
Now I'm using this single side foam tape I got from Grainger to fabricate new seals for my blend doors - old ones were dry rotted. I may end up taking off the top of the heater box to get to the harder to reach seals. The blend doors on the side were easy to disconnect.
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Doing Christmas early with my side of the family...
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New M3 Owner... The Build Thread
My car has a big hole in it now
Heater Box out. Everyone says this is a pain to remove. If you have everything off already it's easy. Four bolts under the cowl, one bolt down near the shifter, untangle the wires noting their locations and tagging each, leave the guide wires on, and the last step I missed...leave the wiring harness that runs to the heater final stage relay attached to the box. I spent an hour trying do disconnect this thing, don't.
Also, before you remove the heater core, I would recommend using compressed air to blow out the coolant. Just blow in on side and it will shoot out the other. Better to leak coolant on the back of the engine than in the driver footwell. In my case, this also showed me that my heater valve is leaking as there were little drops of coolant on the pedals and floor mat from where coolant squeezed out during the flushing from the excess pressure. Even though it didn't leak during my testing. Going to replace the valve to be safe.
Some pics showing how rotten the interior padding was.
Looks fine at first...
Light scrape with this plastic thing. Not so great.
Take the rest off (I've already redone the bottom in this pic)
Overlay with the adhesive foam I got from Grainger. May try to find one big piece and redo, but I'm happy with how this came out.
So the bottom is pretty much done. Next is the upper portion. Dir.tee.
Last edited by CurrusDei; 11-09-2014, 08:19 PM.Comment
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great pics of a part of the car most people have never spent time on. thanks for postingI BUY/SELL REFURBISHED CM5907s & CM5908s
HOWTOs:
DB vert plastic bumpers
OEM Keys
MTech1 docs
88 ix Lach/Card
91 ic Calypso 3.1
86 Cosmo 2.7
OEM+ or bust!
reelizmpro: I will always be an e30 guy.. I still do all of my own labor
TrentW: There's just something so right about a well-built M20 in an E30
e30m3s54turbo: I save my money for tuner parts.Comment
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Keep up the good work. Doing things right :)Current:
1989 325i
1988 M3
1987 325ic
Past:
2001 330ci
2001 M3Comment
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New M3 Owner... The Build Thread
Sneak peek. The M3 had a great Christmas
Oh and almost forgot... Replacement for the AC condensor. Parallel flow and sans decades of rust.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLast edited by CurrusDei; 01-10-2015, 09:14 PM.Comment
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Nice stuff!I Timothy 2:1-2Comment
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Nice, more updates :)
I'll be back in ATL mid this year, would love to see your M3. I'll probably start restoring mine towards the end of the year as well, so might pick ur brain for info later on if that's ok :)Comment
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