5k is on the cheap side, are they spraying the jambs or taping them. Engine bay?
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The 5 Year Restoration - E30 M3 Reborn
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Saturday update. On the list:
Top off coolant and replace spark plugs (stayed with Bosch because i had trouble finding terminal caps for the NGKs I got). Took 5 mins. MUCH easier than in my 335
Diagnose low voltage issue. My wipers had been very slow, as had my sun roof. My radio would light up but not turn on, and my horn sounded really weak. It seemed like low voltage everywhere...
Car off...
Car on... There's the problem
Car on, AC maxed
The grounds all looked good, so I pulled the alternator
The tall brush is about 8mm, short one is about 6. Seems like a good candidate for low voltage. I ordered another voltage regulator from BMA Parts for $30 (part 704 54004 101). Not sure if it will fit but they had it listed under the E30 M3 and it is a Bosch part. Better than the $120 ECS had on theirs.
Also checked out what used to be the alt bushings.
Old vs new
Replaced exhaust hanger
Pulled the old power steering and AC belt, both are showing cracks. Going to clean up a bit tomorrow before reinstalling belts.
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How's the alt ground? Did you make sure to accelerate the engine to "excite" the alternator so it can begin charging?"I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj
85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER
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Originally posted by Zinoberrot View Post
Replaced the voltage regulator but I'm still getting 11v when running (at the battery and off the alt under the hood). Looking like a new alternator is in order. Anyone have a recommendation?
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkOriginally posted by reelizmpro View PostHow's the alt ground? Did you make sure to accelerate the engine to "excite" the alternator so it can begin charging?Below the radar...
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Weekend Update...
So I tried revving before and during reading the alternator (from the alt, not battery). I got 13v immediately after the rev but it then fell to 12.75 and 12.5. During rev it gets over 13 but I didn't see 14. Thinking it needs to be replaced.
Also, I nearly finished the other wheel bearing. The job is so much easier the second time with the right tools. My best advice is make sure you have the right tools. Get a bearing puller set on loan from an auto store or buy from Harbor Freight or another store. Don't screw around with the YouTube methods of big washers, PVC pipes, etc. Also a slide hammer works wonders for removing the hub.
While I had the shocks disconnected, I thought I would take a shot at those squeaky shock tower mounts
Take em out
New v. old
someone hypothesized they were blown out...they were correct
In the process of getting these things off, I seem to have flattened the threads on the shocks themselves...
They were probably blown out anyways
So current status:
- Need suggestions for shocks. Thinking about staying stock, any thoughts?
- Alternator is on the grocery list
- going to do diff fluid change while I'm at it
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLast edited by CurrusDei; 06-02-2014, 09:03 AM.
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Decided to stay stock for the sake of originality and to keep myself from diving down the rabbit tunnel that is suspension modification. I figure there's enough to do on the car that the money would be better used elsewhere. So, 2 Sachs shocks and 1 alternator are in the mail!
While waiting, I decided to pull that awful radio out of the car. It was an eyesore, time to go. As I suspected, the install by a previous owner (our favorite zip tie aficionado) was a total hack job. Electrical tape and lots of it
And underneath the tape, professional level wire splicing...
Banished
This hole looks so much better than that radio
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New M3 Owner...How'd I do?
I'm on vacation this week so finally have some time to post an update!
Time to get rid of those busted old shock tower mounts!
And new rear shocks
Remanufactured alternator
Bingo
Working on removing the cosmoline from the engine bay. 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral sprits + patience an elbow grease
^ this is also the pic that shows the pool noodle in my engine bay. I would love to meet the owner who did this (i imagine its our zip tie fan).
I don't have a pic but I also discovered that time and heat had gifted my car a supplemental air intake in the form of a 3 inch tear in the intake elbow. Glad I discovered it before a leaf, bug, or other foreign object did. The new elbow has arrived and the pool noodle replacement gasket is on the way.
Now a question, several of the lines behind the engine are zip tied to each other, and two of the fuel lines are zip tied to hang from the brake line. Why in the world would anyone do this??? Any ideas? I'm inclined to just cut the zip ties off. Is it missing a bracket that the hoses are supposed to run through?
Up next...
Radio upgrade from this...
To this...
Throttle zip tie lattice delete...
And to replace the dry rotted wire wrapping with some fresh oem tape
No shortage of projects here! Should be fun.
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It worked well. Still a lot of areas to cover. It will be easier to clean parts as I disassemble areas for various repairs.
Yes planning to use the stock amp, wiring, speakers, etc. I'm a total novice at car audio so I'll doubtless be researching and asking questions on here. I'll document thoroughly so that other stereo noobs like me can do the rmt200 install without any trouble. After a lot of looking I think its the best looks/function combo out there. Bluetooth streaming in an 80s car is going to be awesome.
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