So, still no solutions for working ABS on e36 5-lug??

[HellzMindPlaya]

If you still haven't figured this out by something this weekend I will pull a wheel off and remove the electrical tape I have over the splice where I spliced the two wires and just look at the colors... I have just not got around to it because I have been working late lately, busy doing other shit, and we have had a high of about 32 in the last few days. I am looking at the manuals (ETMs) right now, but they seem to be really bad at giving colors.

[xer0trigger]

Ok, I get about 1.1kOhm between the black and brown leads. Nothing between the others.

(If it's as simple as black to black & brown to brown, I'm gonna kick myself. And Clay. And whoever told Clay it was different.)

[hoveringuy]

You WILL read a resistance on the VR sensor, but it may be in the kilo or mega ohm range. It will not have straight continuity.

The Hall sensor is an integrated circuit and it will read as an open circuit.

[xer0trigger]

Well, curiosity got the best of me and I had to go out there in the rain and pull one of the front sensors. Continuity testing didn't tell me anything, as I don't get any continuity through any pair of the three... I thought VR sensors were basically a wire wrapped around a magnet, and Hall sensors were wires connected through a magnet, but I guess it's not that simple. At least not with these.

FWIW, the sensor was pretty filthy with brake dust. I wonder if that's the reason I was getting strange issues and it's not the wiring? Even still, I'd like to be able to verify I have it wired up right.

Other ideas for testing while I have it out?

[hoveringuy]

On the other hand, VR sensors have the advantage of being extremely rugged and capable of withstanding tremendous heat. (brakes... ring a bell?)

[xer0trigger]

The effective range above 8mph would explain why the ABS light usually doesn't kick on until you drive faster than 10mph.

It would be very interesting if they switched from a VR sensor in the earlier models to a Hall in the later ones. I don't really think that's the case however, since the part# is the same for any year, any model E36.

I wish I had my hands on an early 325i sensor, which apparently is 2-wire. At least then I could compare the two. I mean, I'm assuming that since the part# is the same across all years and models, that the connector must have spots for 3 connections but only two are filled?

If I wasn't having a miniature hurricane outside right now I'd go pull the damn thing and fiddle with it. But it's going to have to wait.

[hoveringuy]

It's clear that the rear are VR sensors. The front could be, too, but it's curious to see that they've changed the polarity of the shield with regard to the resistors above it, and why add a ground to a VR sensor? Doesn't make any sense...

Now, the reason they would want to add a Hall sender in place of the VR sender is that the Hall sender is much better at low speeds. The VR has a minimum wheel speed where it's effective, lets say 8 mph. At that speed the teeth are going too slow to generate enough voltage in the VR sender and the signal drops. The VR signal strength is directly proportional to wheel speed.

The Hall sender will work reliably all the way down to Zero mph.

Why that would be important for ABS, I guess an earlier signal when it's released from being locked?

I'm curious to play with mine now!

[xer0trigger]

I initially thought they were hall effect sensors. However the picture makes it look like it's a VR sensor. Only one wire on the diagram is marked, which is the yellow one ("GE"), which looks like the power lead to the sensor. If I had to wager a guess, I'd say the other wire is brown, and the black is the optional chassis ground. But until I pull it out and test, that's just a guess.

[hoveringuy]

Looking at the diagrams, only two of the three wires in a newer M3 sensor really need to be hooked up, as the third is just a chassis ground. This is, in fact, the way the 318's and 325's are, as there isn't a 3rd wire on it. Only the 328's and M3's have the third wire, according to this wiring diagram I have from the ETK on 1996 models (my fronts came from a '99).

The question is which two wires get hooked up? Right now I have the black and yellow ones hooked up, and I get intermittent issues with the ABS (light on from the get go, light doesn't come on at all, or light comes on after a few minutes of driving). It seems strange to me as I would think it'd either fault out or not, not be all fluky like it is.

Regardless, it should be as simple as testing for continuity across two of the leads to see which ones need to be spliced in. I plan on doing this soon, I just haven't had the time yet.

I'll pull one of my M3 sensors out and play with it when I get time. In BMW parlance, yellow is the signal out.

I don't even know if they are Hall or VR sensors... 2 wire sensors are usually VR and 3 Hall. Does the ETK show one of the wires going to power?

[xer0trigger]

Looking at the diagrams, only two of the three wires in a newer M3 sensor really need to be hooked up, as the third is just a chassis ground. This is, in fact, the way the 318's and 325's are, as there isn't a 3rd wire on it. Only the 328's and M3's have the third wire, according to this wiring diagram I have from the ETK on 1996 models (my fronts came from a '99).

The question is which two wires get hooked up? Right now I have the black and yellow ones hooked up, and I get intermittent issues with the ABS (light on from the get go, light doesn't come on at all, or light comes on after a few minutes of driving). It seems strange to me as I would think it'd either fault out or not, not be all fluky like it is.

Regardless, it should be as simple as testing for continuity across two of the leads to see which ones need to be spliced in. I plan on doing this soon, I just haven't had the time yet.

[clavinZERO]

I'm thinking I need to rig up my bench grinder signal generator for a smackdown on ABS sensors.

Oscilloscope doesn't lie.

tru fact

[hoveringuy]

I'm thinking I need to rig up my bench grinder signal generator for a smackdown on ABS sensors.

Oscilloscope doesn't lie.

[clavinZERO]

You need to get the front sensors from a early e36 without ASC. They will be 2 wires, and the colors should match your e30 sensors pigtail. Splice it together.

The ABS computer doesn't need to see the same amount of teeth front to rear, it is able to calculate wheel speed just fine. Don't ask me how it does, or why, but it works it out without a problem.

Going to test this someday. Can someone else verify? XEROTRIGGER... this is right up our alley!

[E30FTW]

You need to get the front sensors from a early e36 without ASC. They will be 2 wires, and the colors should match your e30 sensors pigtail. Splice it together.

The ABS computer doesn't need to see the same amount of teeth front to rear, it is able to calculate wheel speed just fine. Don't ask me how it does, or why, but it works it out without a problem.

[xer0trigger]

Sorry to resurrect this thread, but I have an ABS issue of my own and I'm looking for solutions.

In the rear I have 318ti arms with the sensors. They are two wire sensors, just like the E30 ones. I spliced them in; Black to Black, Brown to Brown.

I have 99 M3 spindles up front with the sensors spliced into the E30 harness. Black to Black, E36 Yellow to E30 Brown, E36 brown left disconnected (as I read in Clavin's swap thread).

Two things - are the fronts wired correctly? Or should it be Brown to Brown and Yellow left disconnected? If so, then my problems stem from something else. Maybe a pair of E36 non-M speed sensors would remedy the problem?