So, still no solutions for working ABS on e36 5-lug??

[xer0trigger]

If I had them, I'd use the E36 connectors, so if a sensor ever went bad I could just replace it easily. But I just spliced them in - soldered, wrapped, and sealed.

[hoveringuy]

E36 black -> E30 black
E36 brown -> E30 brown
E36 yellow -> disconnected

No faults, working ABS.

Kewl!

Which connector did you use?

[xer0trigger]

M3 fronts, 318ti rears, with their respective ABS sensors. Axles are the stock E30's. The rear sensors from the 318ti are essentially the same as the E30 sensors, but the right length for the trailing arms (no need for spacers). They are the same on Z3 rears as well.

One other (maybe unrelated) thing to note... I'm not sure if it's just my application or not, but when I did the steering rack change to M3, I initially used the stock E30 tie rods. After I did the 5-lug swap (with E36 M3 fronts), I had to replace them with the E36 tie rods because they are shorter and I couldn't get enough adjustment out of the stockers.

[clavinZERO]

E36 black -> E30 black
E36 brown -> E30 brown
E36 yellow -> disconnected

No faults, working ABS.

What front and rear parts are you using? Please include sensors, axles, and all that. Thx.

[xer0trigger]

E36 black -> E30 black
E36 brown -> E30 brown
E36 yellow -> disconnected

No faults, working ABS.

[nando]

actually, isn't it because the ABS computers in our cars aren't that smart? the newer cars can definitely freak out. They always have to pull all kinds of trickery to get newer BMWs to dyno properly, especially automatics. I remember an E46 M3 SMG that wouldn't go into gear because the fucking hood was open.. haha

[hoveringuy]

It's an ABS computer... I'm sure it's smart enough to figure those things out.

What if someone had really large tires on the rear? Underinflated fronts? Why doesn't the ABS freak-out when you take it on the chassis dyno. The front tires aren't moving at all.

[xer0trigger]

Well, whether they are the same, or different and it doesn't matter, that's good enough for me. =)

[HellzMindPlaya]

I can almost confirm that the front and back tooth count don't have to match. I have e36 M3 front stuff, and stock sensor stuff (2.8L Z3 stuff) out back and ABS works as it should. I just haven't taken everything apart to count the teeth on them. Sounds like they have a different teeth count from what others say though.

[E30FTW]

:)

[xer0trigger]

With the probe on black a got perfect sinusoidal output characteristic of VR senders. Amplitude went up perfectly with increasing speed.

Resistance between black and brown, 1k Ohm. All others were open circuit.

Yeah, that's what I figured. The resistance is about what I got between black and brown leads (1.1kOhm) when I tested this afternoon.

Are we confirmed at all that front and rear tooth count dont have to match??

I can't confirm it personally, but I've read several places that they are the same tooth count, or that it doesn't even matter.

I've pulled both sides and will be wiring them up again tomorrow. I'll take her for a spin and make sure to slam on the brakes a bunch to test the ABS function (if the light isn't lit).

I hate to admit it, but I think way too much brainpower went into this when it is probably just a color match. But at least all the testing is a good piece of mind. Thanks everyone who has contributed!

I'll post back tomorrow with my results.

[daniel]

Can we be sure to provide the "cliff notes" solution when found?? Thank you all again.

lol yes please.

[clavinZERO]

Thanks for really getting involved in this guys. This work you are doing is really good for tbe community. I will definitely stay subscribed here. I know for some of us this lingo is a bit technical... Can we be sure to provide the "cliff notes" solution when found?? Thank you all again.

Are we confirmed at all that front and rear tooth count dont have to match??

[hoveringuy]

Fortunately, I have my M3 struts sitting in the garage so I pulled them into the house, installed the the M3 ABS sensor and fired-up the O-sillyscope.

Brown is ground.

With the probe on yellow I got a little bit of AC waveform but it was alternating and would come and go. It looked more like it was trying to produce a voltage.

With the probe on black a got perfect sinusoidal output characteristic of VR senders. Amplitude went up perfectly with increasing speed.

Resistance between black and brown, 1k Ohm. All others were open circuit.

[xer0trigger]

... I am looking at the manuals (ETMs) right now, but they seem to be really bad at giving colors.

You ain't lying about that. A few posts back E30FTW said the earlier sensors are the same color wires as the E30 ones. I don't doubt that for a second, I just wanted to see if I could get the M3 ones working, since I already have them.

The only reason I wired them yellow to brown and black to black is because that's what was mentioned in Clay's 5-lug swap thread, which is what someone else told him he should do.

It would make too much sense if the same color wires worked on the M3 sensors as well, and the yellow is in fact the one left disconnected. I just hadn't gotten back in there to rewire it for testing, and since the jackets are such a pain to get into for splicing, I figured I'd just do some voltmeter testing first.

I should have them wired up this other way in the next day or two, and I'll report back as to how it acts.