What is the secret to getting the front wheel centered?

[Jason89i]

Post up your post suspension swap alignment specs so I can post the factory specs, and I can point out on paper just how horrid the e36 "solution" is.

i assume you are speaking about caster. that is the ONLY "off factory" specs i am getting. i would recommend NOT using camber plates..... it will raise the front 1/4" (unless you use kmak) and then you are just bearly within specs at max setting. just modify the e36m3 offset bearings.....see pic below.

[Jordan]

i pick and choose my battles jR0dan. my battles will never be with you, and my opinion will never change regardless of how ignorant you feel they are.

I'm not trying to pick a fight with you buddy, I have no beef there. You're cool with me. Even with your positive camber, and bad caster.

i assume you are speaking about caster. that is the ONLY "off factory" specs i am getting. i would recommend NOT using camber plates..... it will raise the front 1/4" (unless you use kmak) and then you are just bearly within specs at max setting. just modify the e36m3 offset bearings.....see pic below.

I'm talking about camber and caster. Hence why I mentioned both.

You just can't get enough negative camber in the front when using e36 parts. Not without cutting and moving the towers.

Even if you get the caster to a OK spot, which is just barely within factory specs, the camber is still kaka.

A stock 4lug suspensioned e30, lowered with traditional springs to the point of tucking a 17in wheel with a 215/40 tire should have -1.5 to -2º of camber. Camber plates can increase this to as much as -3.x or so.

Without camber plates a similar height e30 using e36 parts is -.5º or less. At "stock" height its way positive.

[LowR3V'in]

Well that sucks.
e30 m3 fronts it is.

Again just to get things clear for the e36 stuff I'll need:
Camber/caster plate maxed out,
M3 controle arms,
and off-set controle arm bushing just to get within stock specs on the positive side?

But the rear doesn't matter what car it's from right?

[Il Duce]

I'm not trying to pick a fight with you buddy, I have no beef there. You're cool with me. Even with your positive camber, and bad caster.

HA!

[Jason89i]

it sounds like this is turning into a debate.....i hate debates. it all comes to personal preference.

Even if you get the caster to a OK spot, which is just barely within factory specs, the camber is still kaka.

Without camber plates a similar height e30 using e36 parts is -.5º or less. At "stock" height its way positive.

well, i dont have camber plates, i just modified the e36m3 upper bearing cap (see previous post). i got my caster to be "ok." steering does not feel as loose with greater caster and thats good for an e30.

ive got my front camber to -1.5deg (stock) and -1.8deg (with spacers at strut/knuckle bolts like turners kit). good street/track compromise.

i have both the e36-5lug (89m50) and the e30m3-5lug (89s52). and the e36m3 bilstein struts seem to have a better rebound and provide more resistance.

one thing you forgot to mention is ride height. the e36m3 struts vs. e30m3 suspension will result in additional ride height. i have not found a company that sells lowering spring hats for the e36m3.

cheers, jason

[Jason89i]

Camber/caster plate maxed out,
?

you can modify the e36m3 upper bearing caps to get the camber you need. then no camber/caster plates needed. cheers, jason

[E30-323ti]

e36 325i/M3 struts, kingpins etc. 96 M3+ offset control arms, THR eyeball arms, slotted to allow yet more forward caster.

This will BARELY put you at the fringe area of factory castor specs. It will still not be perfectly centered front to back.

You also end up with whack ass positive camber using the e36 shit unless you use camber plates to bring it again.. barely into acceptable specs.

Just to add some clarity to Jordan's comments.
You end up with more caster than stock (even though the wheels is back in the well a little), this is quite desireable as it increases high speed stabilitly and turn-in, it also gives more dynamic camber which also means you don't need as much static camber.

You do need camberplates (or some other mod) to get some reasonable static camber, with out them you will have between +0.5 & +1 up front which isn't any good. You can also kick the bottom of the struts (if you have enough tyre clearance) to increase the camber.
Or if you are real keen, use E46 control arms, they push the king-pin out about another 1", not sure what the wheel centering does?? but is used on E36 quite a bit.

The E36 parts shouldn't be discounted because of these issues, they can all be solved, and still be cheaper/easier to get than using E30 M3 parts.
There are plently of race cars out there running the E36 parts, must be a reason!?!?!

one thing you forgot to mention is ride height. the e36m3 struts vs. e30m3 suspension will result in additional ride height. i have not found a company that sells lowering spring hats for the e36m3.

cheers, jason

Coilovers!!!

[Digitalwave]

Coilovers also allow you to use GC camber plates which actually provide more suspension travel and don't add to the overall height of the car, because of their thin stack height.

[trashcop 80s 80s]

so does anyone know what the specs would be if you were to use e46 control arms on e36 struts?

[nefarious7907]

In regards to jordans post on rear rotor size, what is the size of the front rotors on an e30m3 It would seem logical to keep some kind of ratio from front to back as far as rotor size. Now will the rear trailing arm bushings and subframe bushings interchange from e30 to e36.

Pelican parts has the strut housing part numbers for 88m3's and I would assumer that you could find them cheaper at a dealership(with discounts).

[clavinZERO]

In regards to jordans post on rear rotor size, what is the size of the front rotors on an e30m3 It would seem logical to keep some kind of ratio from front to back as far as rotor size. Now will the rear trailing arm bushings and subframe bushings interchange from e30 to e36.

Pelican parts has the strut housing part numbers for 88m3's and I would assumer that you could find them cheaper at a dealership(with discounts).

bump for this question.

[CarsSuck]

I dont know for sure, but since the e30 and e36 rear suspension is totally different, I would assume that the bushings wont be the same.

[alexbaby88]

one thing you forgot to mention is ride height. the e36m3 struts vs. e30m3 suspension will result in additional ride height. i have not found a company that sells lowering spring hats for the e36m3.

cheers, jason

Jason - How much additional ride height are we talking about, using the E36 parts?

[clavinZERO]

Jason - How much additional ride height are we talking about, using the E36 parts?

Good question.

[Jscotty]

This is kind of off the subject, however, if I simply swapped out the parts from an E36 without any other modifications would my E30 be suitable for cruising or low-speed short trips? I thought about doing a 5-lug swap on what will become my future "show" car, however, the overall function will not be that big of a deal since I plan on carting it around on the trailer 90% of the time.