The 5 lug swap truth thread!!!!!!!!!!

[balooshinakus]

This is the setup that I have on my s50 e30 and it works absolutely fine.

Here's a video of my car at a track day (my first track day, so I'm a shitty driver) last year: http://vimeo.com/14568709

Bro got the same damn setup to put on mine after the S52 is finished, I think it will do just fine as long as the rear wheels tuck. I got 8" in front and 8.5" rears.

[Mr.SWISS]

This thread is scaring the crap out of me, I invested tons of money into a 5 lug swap, now I am scared it will drive like crap. Haven't installed anything yet but this is what I have so far:

- Groundcontrol 5 lug E30 kit (adj konis f/r) with camber/caster strut plates
- treehouse CABs
- new OEM M3 96+ control arms
- 96+ M3 front spindles, calipers/rotors

rear:
- Z3 I6 hubs
- 318ti carriers
- E36 rear calipers
- Z3 I6 rotors
- E30 new wheel bearings

wheels:
17x7.5" ET41 style 5s or 16" RS bastardize mix/match set 8" and 9"
(havent decided which set to run yet)

I plan to install a porportioning valve, but besides for brakes, think this will drive ok?

Bro got the same damn setup to put on mine after the S52 is finished, I think it will do just fine as long as the rear wheels tuck. I got 8" in front and 8.5" rears.

[IanS_in_Oz]

OK so you are still using the non-M hubs. The pictures I posted prior is of my car with a centered 16" wheel (albeit oversized tire from 5 series) using all e36m3 components in the front.


My argument and has been in the thread:
Using e36 M3 96+ control arms (castor gaining)
Using M3 offset bushings (castor gaining)
using e36 m3 knuckles (castor gaining)
e36 m3 brake components, rotors, calipers etc
e36 m3 equivilent struts (e30 springs and e30 upper mount/Stützlager)

..will yield fewer problems than using any of the non-M counter parts listed above that are available as oem, non-custom, part.

I do have respect for your adaptability and available access to a machine shop. I understand the economics of batch manufacturing a design to keep costs within reason when it comes to tooling and setting the machines. I just wanted to drive the point home that there is a way to do this using already available parts that are fairly easy to source (at least stateside). But if there are those who want to run the non-M components due to brake/wheel restrictions then your adapters definitely fit the bill. The e36M3 requires at least a 16" wheel.

cheers,
p_0

No problems. Agree with all of the above, however my adaptors will still provide 10mm more castor than the Treehouse Racing ones, and 15mm to 20mm more than the M3 offset bushes.

Also, based on what is available at the time, mine will provide a cheaper alternative than having to buy all of the M stuff

[etxxz]

dig the ride diego!

^^ and yes, e36 spindles definitely help.

[psyber_0ptix]

OK so you are still using the non-M hubs. The pictures I posted prior is of my car with a centered 16" wheel (albeit oversized tire from 5 series) using all e36m3 components in the front.


My argument and has been in the thread:
Using e36 M3 96+ control arms (castor gaining)
Using M3 offset bushings (castor gaining)
using e36 m3 knuckles (castor gaining)
e36 m3 brake components, rotors, calipers etc
e36 m3 equivilent struts (e30 springs and e30 upper mount/Stützlager)

..will yield fewer problems than using any of the non-M counter parts listed above that are available as oem, non-custom, part.

I do have respect for your adaptability and available access to a machine shop. I understand the economics of batch manufacturing a design to keep costs within reason when it comes to tooling and setting the machines. I just wanted to drive the point home that there is a way to do this using already available parts that are fairly easy to source (at least stateside). But if there are those who want to run the non-M components due to brake/wheel restrictions then your adapters definitely fit the bill. The e36M3 requires at least a 16" wheel.

cheers,
p_0

[IanS_in_Oz]

In my car, the only E36 M components are the control arms and the brakes. I machined the M3 caliper brackets to suit the non-M knuckle.
The late M control arms have a little more castor than the non-M ones.

[psyber_0ptix]

Everything bolts on...it is that the wheel moves about 40mm towards the back of the wheel arch when using them.
E30 M3 offset CABs move it about 12mm forward, Treehouse Racing ones move it another 10-12mm, but that is still not quite right.
"Countless others" are satisfied with this, as they are using smaller wheels, or decide to put up with it.

To me this wasnt satisfactory, as the 17x8 wheels still hit the back on the inner guard.
So I designed my own, to give the absolute maximum castor adjustment available.

I didn't say it was easier, as there was a lot of work involved, but the result is better,
And now I have got a number of sets made up to make it easier for others, using all 'bolt-on" components

Just to clarrify, you are still talking about using non-M components when I am talking about using the e36M knuckle/Radträger? My wheel is definitely not offcenter by 4cm. using ALL e36m front hardware, not just CAB that you are advertising all over this post for sale.

[Dagamus(NM)]

one last question that i am sure I will get the answer I don't want..... will the non M brake calipers and rotors fit on the M knuckles?

You already know the answer.

I have a set of dsII's in the garage I need to have stripped and refinished. Gross chrome wheels with peeling finish.

I guess I will add them to the pile of stuff to go get media blasted. Too bad you are not stateside or I would get them refinished and consider a trade.

[IanS_in_Oz]

what can i use to center it???

Buy some of these off me to fix your castor:

They give the required CA offset to completely center the wheel.

This is the result with Non-M spindles and 96+ M3 control arms

[x17x]

It will be about 10-20mm back

what can i use to center it???

[IanS_in_Oz]

I'm going 5 lug with e36 non m front n e36 ti on rear n I m using treehouse racing cab..just wanna know will my front be center or a bit to the back??

It will be about 10-20mm back

[diegom6]

you can go as low as you want. that will actually help with clearing stuff. I wish i could put some 17x8.5 et10s on my e30. Would be sick but would need some important fender rolling on the rear... would allow me to get rid of the spacers too.

n stop typing like that unless you're a 13yro girl that just discovered myspace ; |

My BBS RS 17x9.5 are ET55 ;) The front 17x8 (converted) are ET55 but no sure if that changed when added a smaller inner barrel.

I do had to make some fender guard/arch/bumper/spoiler work to have a nice flush of the wheel/tire inside of the fender on the back. Front is stock.

[mikeedler]

one last question that i am sure I will get the answer I don't want..... will the non M brake calipers and rotors fit on the M knuckles?

[mikeedler]

so here is my update to this thread
after smashing the shit out of the inner rear firewall area for clearance, I get no more rubbing at all- unless I am reversing at full lock (which is totally acceptable to me)

as far as the unstable feeling of the car above 140kmh, oddly enough it is gone!!!
I guess it is/was the Chinese 205/40/17 tires. they must have "worn" in

the ET20 wheels I am running do make for a bit of the problem too I am guessing


now just need to find some ET41 wheels so I can fit some real tire on the rear of the car! anyone wanna trade a set of polished 2 piece style 5 wheels for a set of DS II's??????

[Dagamus(NM)]

Don't bother with non-m in the front. E30m3 in the rear, m-coupe or one of massive's ti rears.

For you all that don't want to spend on what is above just get a nice four lug brake kit and some nice wheels for much less than is above.

Non m front made for the worst car I have ever driven, I didn't even get a block down the street before I turned around and pulled it off. Late e36 m3 with treehouse. My wheels sit in the center of the well on gc coilovers and vorshlag plates.

17x8.5 rondell 58's Et41 and 215/45 llantas