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The 5 lug swap truth thread!!!!!!!!!!

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  • Whit3 E30
    replied
    So I know this is a really really old thread, but I have a question. I have a 1984 318i with the M10B18 and G240. I have put money into the M10 and will eventually need to 5 lug swap it for bigger brakes from a E36(going to boost it, expecting 300+ hp and 200+ Tq). I have already changed the suspension and brakes front and rear, taken from a 1991 318is. So rear subframe, trailing arms, brakes, ect. Front struts and brakes ect. are all from a 1991 318is, then I bought brand new 84' 318i lower control arms. So now that most of the background information is out there, here is my question. To do a 5 lug conversion, could I use 96'+ non-M Z3 front struts and knuckles, brakes , ect. then a adjustable top plate for e30, with stock e30 non-M lower control arms with a offset solid control arm bushing for the front? Then the rear could I use again 96'+ non M Z3 rear hubs n bearings an brakes? (I Don't know if they use the same size bearings as the 91' iS.) Then get a bracket made for the brake calipers on the 91 rear subframe trailing arms. Or should I just take both trailing arms with brakes and stuff still attached and install them on the 91' Is rear subframe? Could this work as a 5 lug conversion???? Please help!! Or tell me what I'm missing from the setup??

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  • bimmer630
    replied
    Clavin, I actually copied your setup in a way... I definitely read your threads a lot before doing my 5 lug

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  • clavinZERO
    replied
    Originally posted by bimmer630 View Post
    I have been running
    -E36 M3 96-up arms
    -E30 offset m3 bushings
    -E36 M3 knuckles and brakes
    -Ground control adjustable camber/caster plates mounted to non-M front struts with GC coil over conversion
    -Z3 6cyl rear hubs, brakes
    -E36 steering rack

    16x8 BBS wheels with 225/45r16 tires

    ...And my car feels stable and safe at ALL SPEEDS.
    I tracked it (before my S50 swap) and it did GREAT, (it had better lap times than 100,000 pro touring camaros..hehe)

    My front wheels are centered


    It seems like the guys that say this swap is wrong, are the guys who forget to use M3 knuckles, etc.....
    YOU HAVE TO HAVE ALL M3 E36 stuff (96-up) or it will be wrong

    Are guys who have all of these parts still unhappy with their swaps?
    Similare experience here as well.

    Leave a comment:


  • bimmer630
    replied
    I have been running
    -E36 M3 96-up arms
    -E30 offset m3 bushings
    -E36 M3 knuckles and brakes
    -Ground control adjustable camber/caster plates mounted to non-M front struts with GC coil over conversion
    -Z3 6cyl rear hubs, brakes
    -E36 steering rack

    16x8 BBS wheels with 225/45r16 tires

    ...And my car feels stable and safe at ALL SPEEDS.
    I tracked it (before my S50 swap) and it did GREAT, (it had better lap times than $100,000 pro touring camaros..hehe)

    My front wheels are centered


    It seems like the guys that say this swap is wrong, are the guys who forget to use M3 knuckles, etc.....
    YOU HAVE TO HAVE ALL M3 E36 stuff (96-up) or it will be wrong

    Are guys who have all of these parts still unhappy with their swaps?
    Last edited by bimmer630; 10-09-2015, 06:42 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • itskingsteelo
    replied
    ive been reading up on it and there seems to be alot of talk on how the front set up will have problems and the car will handle funny, whats your input.

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  • clavinZERO
    replied
    Originally posted by itskingsteelo View Post
    Just picked up '98 M3 front set up and 318ti rear set up. Still wondering if I should do the swap or not.
    I have had that exact setup on my car since July 2007. Daily driven! You will be happy.

    Leave a comment:


  • itskingsteelo
    replied
    Just picked up '98 M3 front set up and 318ti rear set up. Still wondering if I should do the swap or not.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dagamus(NM)
    replied
    If you just want to run those wheels then you should take them and get them filled and drilled. Hub centering rings and call it good.

    It used to be the rear that was impossible to go e30 m3, now it is the front struts that cost a ton. Soon none of it will be around.

    The rear caliper carrier bracket, the front strut tube, and the piece that goes from the strut tube to the control arm are the rare parts. If you can source those six pieces then you can do the rest for a couple hundred bucks depending on rotor/pad/shock choices.

    Proper wheels are just as hard to get for a five lugged e30 as they are for a four lug. The AC Schnitzer type 1's I bought recently went to the refinisher. They were able to fix the oxidation and repaint after trying the bends in three of them :(

    $721 for the wheels and another $600 to refinish them. Not bad all in all. I think I should have no rubbing now.

    Leave a comment:


  • dhcg86
    replied
    Any idea what I should budget if I want to do the full e30 m3 swap?

    I just wanna use my 17" style 42s from my e39!!!!!

    Leave a comment:


  • D-rock
    replied
    I'm having so much trouble with my setup! ;( any help pleaseeee

    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=244934

    Leave a comment:


  • Mr.Wiggles
    replied
    Originally posted by Dagamus(NM) View Post
    Yup, those are correct. Strange that you have that much of a problem.

    Look on the bright side, you can now run these:













    Those be euro m-coupe rotors. I wanted the ones with the M\\\ logo on them, but I could not justify an extra $200 over what I paid for bling. These are the ATE rotors and I got a good deal on them from rmeuropean.com

    :up: :up: :up: :up: :up: :up: :up:

    Leave a comment:


  • Mr.Wiggles
    replied
    I wish I would have seen this a year ago..FML!

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  • quakerE30
    replied
    I am currently tracking down M3 spindles, brakes and arms. As for the rear, from what I've been reading in other places from reliable sources I'm thinking of doing the Z3 6cyl. hubs and brakes. They are larger than the stock E30 but same wheel bearing. Eventually I may go Mcoupe trailing arms but for now I'll try the cheaper way and see how it does. Any suggestions for the factory e30 brake bias valve? aftermarket? larger oem?.......................^Viva Portugal!

    Leave a comment:


  • CrAzY_DrIveR
    replied
    m3

    without m3 stuff at the front the wheels will rub against the back os the fender and you won't be able to drive the car, mine has the normal spindles but has the control arms and busching from the ///M, it's not perfect but it works...

    Leave a comment:


  • Dagamus(NM)
    replied
    You can use it but it is a downgrade from what you have. Sell it on craigslist or eBay. It is not worth your time, you can pay now or pay a lot more later.

    The e36 m3 spindles are required as are the control arms. That means you need e36 m3 brakes. If you do that and get the 318ti rear brake downgrade your brake bias will be almost completely to the front.

    The 318ti rear hubs stick out quite a bit further, I cannot recall exactly how much but I think it is around 15mm. I know that may not sound like much, but that is a wider track without the geometry to support it.

    I had this with 8.5 inch wheels with a plus 35 offset and it felt less stable thank stock 6.6 inch wheels.

    The same wheels with the mcoupe hardware with about the same overall track but the trailing arms are very different having shorter hubs but a thicker bearing housing. It feels pretty well planted however the wheels still rub a bit. I will be switching the wheels to the acs type 1's 17x8 et38 that are being delivered Friday. I should finally have the setup I want.

    Ive been at this for years and it is just getting right.

    If this car is your daily please don't do it. If this is an extra car that you can keep in the garage when not working then hey, no substitute for learning from your own errors just like I have/am.

    Leave a comment:

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